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Lover's Leap

5.7, Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.8 from 261 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Lover's Leap

Description

This is a fabulous route. I can't say enough good about it. After you have crossed the creek and struggled up through the woods and a talus slope, find the lowest point on the crag. It should be pretty obvious. At the top left corner of the talus slope is where you find it.

Pitch 1 - 5.6. Scramble up over broken terrain, aiming for a left facing dihedral and climb it to a small ledge at the base of a roof.

Pitch 2 - 5.7. Pull around the roof to the left and continue up a left facing dihedral. Belay at another ledge and roof in the dihedral system.

Pitch 3 - 5.6. Scramble to the left over easier terrain to reach the base of the final headwall.

Pitch 4 - 5.7. This is the icing on the cake! See the nice pretty crack going up the steep headwall? Well, get on it. A couple of stretched-out stemming and jamming moves lead to bomber jugs and the top.

Scramble west or climber's right working laterally and down, but not too soon. You can descend to either side of the rock buttress in front of you. To the right involves some down climbing, but is shorter. You should locate a fairly obvious path once you scramble down to the trees. It hugs fairly tight to the cliff as it winds its way back to the base of the cliff.

See "Colorado Front Range Crags" by Peter Hubbel as a reference. It is out of print.

Protection

A standard rack is used for this route. Nothing special is needed.

Descent

Per esbb: the rap stations are as follows: at the tree on top the start of the first rappel, there are brand new anchors, Metolius 1/2 inch as of 6-19-08, rappel towards the cross, and be on the lookout for the chains. This will be the 2nd rap station, follow the lay of the rock rap to the 3rd station also with chains then to the ground, you will be about 80 feet to the west of the base of the route. Remember ALWAYS KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE, and yes, it is a single rope rappel 60 meter rope required. NO SINGLE 50 METER WILL WORK. Always take into consideration others around you, and BE SAFE.

Per curt86iroc: there is an alternate walkoff (one of many options):once topped out, head S/SW past the first rap station, and start down the obvious gully and boulderfield. As you start to make your way down the boulders, look for several cairns guiding you around the base of the wall back towards the approach trail. After the boulders end, a short bushwhack leads to the trail, 20 minutes. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1.
Below the crux of last pitch.
[Hide Photo] Below the crux of last pitch.
Phil Pickett finishing up the route with US 285 far below.
[Hide Photo] Phil Pickett finishing up the route with US 285 far below.
Bruce Hildenbrand stemmed out at the crux of the last pitch.
[Hide Photo] Bruce Hildenbrand stemmed out at the crux of the last pitch.
Lover's Leap on the right.  Green arrows show a rap route.
[Hide Photo] Lover's Leap on the right. Green arrows show a rap route.
These guys are on the pitch right below the crux.  They guy belaying is not quite at the cave (bolts at the cave).
[Hide Photo] These guys are on the pitch right below the crux. They guy belaying is not quite at the cave (bolts at the cave).
Bruno Hamann tops out on "Haystack." Lover's Leap, CA, circa 1988.
[Hide Photo] Bruno Hamann tops out on "Haystack." Lover's Leap, CA, circa 1988.
Final pitch cracks.
[Hide Photo] Final pitch cracks.
Scott leading the crux.
[Hide Photo] Scott leading the crux.
Shannon Miller cleaning up pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Shannon Miller cleaning up pitch 1.
We did this as one pitch with a 70m.  It is historical pitch 2....
[Hide Photo] We did this as one pitch with a 70m. It is historical pitch 2....
At the crux.  One move.
[Hide Photo] At the crux. One move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darrin Stein
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] There is a rap route for those who don't like to down climb. Last I had seen, the first station was not bolted. I always found a nice, sharp piece of rock and doubled it over. rapped down about 60' to a two bolt station, then finished not to far off from where the trail meets the base of this crag. The rappel is pretty much down the Winter Route, in the book that Julian mentioned. Jan 12, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
[Hide Comment] I climbed Lover's Leap last October but I'm not sure which route we did. I led the first pitch to a belay stance with two old bolts and a piece of green webbing. The second pitch went left by following a crack, then straight up following easier terrain to the next belay with webbing(?). The third pitch also followed easier terrain to a decent sized ledge. I led the fourth and last pitch to the summit by climbing across a slab and up to the right of a roof near an ancient bolt with a rusty chain that I clipped for the fun of it. We scrambled down (climber's right) to the bottom and relocated the trail. This is a good place to climb that is close to Denver on US Highway 285 heading south. I used a variety of small to medium cams and stoppers. One will see pieces of old webbing and an occasional bolt along the way. I would highly recommend placing your own gear and not using these ancient pieces of pro...Shane. Mar 14, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] I think you were on a different route, Shane. This route starts at about the nadir of the rock (otherwise, it is difficult to identify from close up). Now there is a multi-bolt sport pitch, currently lists as Unknown, 5.9+, just to its left. I recall seeing some manky-looking bolts & green sling to the left of the start.

Oh yeah. This can easily be done in 3 pitches. Mar 20, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
[Hide Comment] I was definitely on a different route. We did see that bolted route to our right, but decided not to take it. We basically followed old webbing, chossy rock, an occasional crack, and easy slab to the top. The crux was at the start of the second pitch directly to the left of the green webbing (maybe 5.8, 5.7?). One could also follow a nice crack with a piton that is also located left and down of the green webbing. Tried to do that climb again in December, but was a bit too cold...Shane Mar 28, 2002
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
[Hide Comment] DESCENT - I find it much easier and faster to walk off the top to the east; it's just a quick jaunt down slabs - to the west I found the rap route to be manky and the downclimb fuzzy with moss. Apr 20, 2002
[Hide Comment] If you climb during a high traffic time (rush hours), a system of rope pulls for communication can make your life a whole lot easier, as well as saving some wear and tear on the vocal cords. Jul 31, 2002
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route, altough the climbing itself is definitely not three star quality, it's a fun summit climb, and has a bit of an adventure feel. The line we followed is very obvious from the talus slope: it is the most obvious crack system which follows a plum line from the nadir of the face up to just shy of the rightmost part of the obvious notch; take a second and check it out from the talus.

We began in the most obvious (largest) LF dihedral (directly below notch in pic). Turning "roofs" on the right and following the corner system. It isn't always completely obvious where to go, but I never went left, always right. Following this line, this climb could easily be done in two pitches, we nearly did, but I ended up belaying right below the final crack because i had used my .75 Camalot already (looked perfect for the crux, and was). This Eldo-esque crack is the only 5.7 move(s) on the entire climb...it's great! We walked off to the east down the slabs and such, took a while longer than the other descents, but is kinda pretty and never really hard to find your way. The rap anchor we saw from the climb definitely looked manky, ie. ratty slings, American Death Triangle, and probable quarter inchers. Aug 27, 2002
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on 9/05/02. Quite enjoyable, nice views, and we didn't see another soul all day. For the approach: after parking in the nearest pull-out on the south side of 285, head east from the lot about 200ft (between the river-bed and guard-rail) until you come down into the dry river-bed. Go directly across to a path where someone has been nice enough to place a fixed line with knots to assist in climbing the southern bank (very useful when coming back). There are other trails up this bank but they are all very steep and loose. Follow the trail to the talus and go up the talus to the base of the climb (just right of an obvious bolted line). The climb takes pro very well, and the first two pitches offer some decent climbing on moderate terrain. The last pitch is short, but very aesthetic, and offers one challenging move. We placed a set of new slings and screw-locks up and to the left of this finish (they will probably be pirated before long, but hopefully not, because the rappel stations on the face below are well-bolted and this is by far the easiest way off the climb). This descent requires two-ropes for all three raps and goes down the face to the left of the climb (from the slings to a three-bolt station, to another three bolt station, to the ground). The best description of this climb is in the new book "Serious Play" by Steve Dieckhoff. Sep 9, 2002
TresSki Roach
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] Another thing to mention about this climb is that it stays in the shade. We did it yesterday, 10/6/02 and I could see my breath and couldn't feel my fingers. Great exposure, especially through the crux on P5! Gotta admit that the crux was a bit intimidating. Once I stemmed out far enough, the holds were all there, just a matter of reaching them. A fun, easy route! Oct 7, 2002
[Hide Comment] Neat climb so close to the city.Radios would be nice. I thought the protection on the first 100 ft. was a little sparse. I bet you could do the whole climb in two long pitches. There is a new set of bolts on the ledge below the final 5.7 headwall crack, just above a small alcove. And as mentioned there's a set of new bolts and rap rings at the top (just left of the crack). Jul 21, 2003
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] A fun variation is to start with the bolted line just left of the start of this route ( 9+) to it's bolted belay. Cut right back to Lover's Leap for p.2, follow it to the next good ledge. Cut back left on an obvious ramp and climb an awesome face about 20' left of the cracks on L.L. it's about 9+ using small TCUs and a piton to a bolt belay. Last pitch heads straight up around a small roof and through a fun face to the summit and could be combined with the 3rd pitch. This puts you to the left of the fixed rap anchor and adds a lil' spice.... Jul 26, 2003
[Hide Comment] Sounds like there's a newly installed rap route? Anyone know how it goes? Thanks! Aug 13, 2003
[Hide Comment] Great first lead (at least the first two pitches are) for someone getting into trad climbing. However, bring plenty of slings as there can be pretty severe rope drag. Also, bring two-way radios since the hi-way noise can get loud. The entire climb can be done with 2 #1 and 2 #2 cams and one full set of stoppers. There are new belay bolts in all three pitches. Bring two ropes for a two pitch rap or one 60 meter rope for a three pitch rap. Wear a helmet for the rockfall from above. Aug 18, 2003
Jason williams
Parker, Colorado
[Hide Comment] This is probably one of the closest crags from town. Overall, it was a really good route. Solid holds except for some weeds in some of the cracks which is probably explained by the lack of traffic. Locating the start of the trail that takes you up and through the forest to the base of the cliff started to get snafu'd, so after 10 minutes of looking for it we just started hiking up the thing. Hike the boulderfield if you don't locate the trail, it's much easier, since it's pretty steep loose dirt. The route can be done in two pitches, but we did it in 3. The 3rd pitch crux requires stemming up a perfect hand crack to the summit. You'll see bolts to the climbers left on each pitch which is the 5.9 route. If no one's on it, you can rap this, but it seemed to me you'd need two ropes. I don't think one will cut it. Or just walk off, we went east, stay close to the cliff and it'll drop you right back at the base; however, west is probably the better way to go. Enjoy. Sep 6, 2003
TBD
 
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure why you would break this climb into 5 pitches. I'll echo what has been previously stated, I think 2, possibly 3 if you want to belay before the crux, is best. To me, the route seemed to be a lot of 5.5 climbing with a short 5.8 crux. I wish the final crack extended the entire climb, because it's great, it really makes the entire climb.

To descend, we did a double rope rappel off the new fixe ring anchors, just to the left of the finish, to the set of bolts that are the belay for the first (or second???) pitch. One gray and one red hanger. From here we traversed climbers right to the obvious rap anchor with blue webbing in the blocky gully. A final short rap gets you to the ground.

At risk of starting controversy, the bolted belays (without rings or quick links to rap off of) seemed pointless. There are plenty of options to place gear anchors. I by no means suggest they should be removed, just making an observation. Next time I'm in the area I will add quick links to the midway bolts so they at least serve a purpose as a rap station. Sep 8, 2003
[Hide Comment] Just so everyone knows, I did this rout yesterday and it still has those bolted rap stations, but going from station two to three from the top is longer than 100 feet. (i.e. can't be done with one 60m rope) I figured this out the hard way, it's short by about 10-15 feet. Just a heads up. Besides that it's a great route to haul your girlfriend up and propose to her at the top. : ) Dave of the Kirtlands May 4, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.7
[Hide Comment] 5 pitches? Climbed 45m to a set of anchors on the right 5.5-5.6. went 40m to the headwall 5.5. climbed the headwall 5.7 15m. call it 2 1/2. May 28, 2004
[Hide Comment] You can do Lover's Leap with just one rope. Last year, in early summer of '03, myself and my partner made 2 rappel stations to the right of the Lover's Leap, 5.7. Go to the top and find the tree with dark colored slings and webbing on it and a quick link. Rap towards the cross and follow down. You will see 2 chained rap stations. This way you don't have to bring up 2 ropes. Aug 9, 2004
Jason Wine
Denver, Co
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Wow, very fun route. For an intermediate lead or a beginner follow, this route is great on its own or as an alpine training route. The right trending crack is easy to find up there, just pick the line going up from the lowest point on the rock. The first pitch is really easy. There is a great belay ledge on the first pitch right after the first big roof (about 1/2 rope length up). the ledge is so sexy it is hard to pass up, but don't use it! Another 25 feet up or so are the first set of bolts. They are just to the right of the route a bit, on a ledge. The second pitch gets a little more interesting, 5.6 maybe. Stay on that until you hit a cave with bolts. You could build a condo on this ledge. The crux is right above the belay and felt almost 5.8 to me. Just a couple moves but very fun. Nice thing is it protects really well. Very fun finish. We rappeled down from the bolts at the top with two ropes. This great rap line brought us directly on top of the first anchor bolts. One more rap and it's time for beer in Morrison. Oct 1, 2005
Buff Johnson
  5.7
[Hide Comment] 2 pitches plus a short crux, you can get the first pitch at a soft 5.7 if you start just to the right of Unknown 5.9 boltline. The start of the first pitch is what gets everyone baffled that are new to the climb; if you go for an obvious crack (Where Tunas Flop .10b - aptly named), or go way right (5.4 to 5.5 - possible rope drag) you can have some troubles. Start to the right of the bolt line, look up to see a goal post in the top of the rock, that's your goal. Double length slings on the second pitch are key to reducing drag.

A newer 2-bolt rap anchor on top offers great rap position, but stance sucks, back to first ledge, 2 @ 60M ropes. The final rap, a single 60M will make it to the ground if you don't use the stopper knots, otherwise it's an easy 8' downclimb.

Overall, this is a great first multi-pitch outing experience if you stay on route. Jan 18, 2006
Kevin Craig
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Great climb with an alpine feel! I agree that it's very Eldo-esque.

I fell at the crux when I flubbed the sequence but there's bomber gear at your waist and I got it second try. It's easy to plug the best jams with your gear, but you really don't need the crack to pull the crux - there's a bomber (for 5.7+) underclingy/sidepull-ish thingy that you can pseudo-layback and walk your feet up the crack until you can reach a decent hold with your right hand.

Only other thing that folks should be aware of is that although the climbing is easy after the crux (5.2 or .3???) the next semi-decent gear is at belay-ledge-fall) distance from the crux pro. I didn't notice this until I was belaying my second up. Not worth an "s" or "R" but worth knowing.

Crux pro is a #2 and a #1 Camalot or similar size. (looked a bit big to me for an orange and red Alien)

We rapped from the 2 new Fixe' ring bolts at the top. Here's the sequence...

1 - Short rap from the top to the P2 belay (also 2 bolts).
2- 55m-ish meter rap to the P1 belay - 3 bolt station on the left (there is also a 2-bolt chain station at about 35m on the right). If you want to bring a retrieval cord rather than a second rope, that worked for us for this rap.
3 - 30m rap to the ground.

Mark's beta on route-finding is right on, go for the goal posts! :^D Plus when in doubt, go right until you can go up a corner (where the gear is).

As for the start, there is a big pine tree that kind of stands a bit off by itself - we strated just above that. Apr 21, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.7
[Hide Comment] A good route indeed.

Monty offered some good tips, I updated my post on the crag page. Apr 29, 2006
Monty
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] As of 5-6-06 the slings for the first rap off the boulder on the right side of Lover's Leap have been replaced. I went up earlier in the week, topped out and walked to the right to get to the boulder that we have been rapping off of for years only to find the slings had been cut and not replaced... Bastards! I replaced the slings and also kicked down about 20 cairns that have never been up there before. Who ever is doing this stop. We didn't need your help before and we don't need it now. This rap route can be done with 1 60m. May 2, 2006
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route today, it was a lot of fun...the approach was easier then that of Cob Rock IMO (and the creek was completely dry). The route is a little bit over rated in my opinion most of it felt about 5.5, aside from the crux I felt I should have free soloed it(aside from a move or two on the lower sections).

I found the crux to be pretty easy once I got the gear, I didn't want to pull into the crux without getting some gear though (factor 2 falls are not good). So I down climbed a little till I found a nice yellow Metolius cam placement, which I made multi-directional with a green Alien. Then, I climbed into the crux but didn't find a really comfy stance so I got a little burned getting my #1 Camalot in and down climbed to a rest once I got it set. Then, I climbed through the crux to the top bolts without placing another piece the whole pitch (or 1/4 pitch is more like it).

I climbed pitch one until the bolts on the right on the nice ledge/stance (probly 30 m). Pitch 2 till the cave with the bolts (probly 30 m) and then the crux pitch (10 m?). Could this be done in 1 pitch with a 70M? This route can't be 450ft.

The rock can be a bit chossy in places, but the climbing is easy, so it's not a big deal if you are careful (my partner and I had no helmets). We rapped off of the tree then to the bolts to the north and west (I think it was the 50M rap route because the chains looked seldom used and rusty.)

Ps. does anyone have any more route info for this formation? I would be interested (there are some nice looking cracks in the center headwall of the buttress). Also I talked to one of the two other parties on the cliff today who did the 5.9 sport route left of the start of the 5.7 and they said it was sandbagged in their opinion and recomended trying it but to bring some small cams to supplement the bolts. Jul 3, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Jay - with respect to the other lines, the problem I see is the amount of lichen on the rock, loose rock, runout sections, and unknown anchoring as to why more people haven't offered beta. The standard route is the best protected line on the rock, with the crux section offering adequate protection so you won't hit the ledge if you blow it or pump out; I've climb it enough to know you don't have to runout the last section & the vector to the new bolts can be protected once you exit for the second. It's a fun route for taking someone new to multi-pitch climbing.

However, most everything else on this rock is a no-fall climb; meaning you probably will hit something if you fall while leading.

The bolt line, Unknown 5.9 (someone must know something about the FFA of this line), is a mixed pro protected slab climb -- bring blue & black Aliens (or equiv.) or you will take a good sized fall & hit something; the second pitch has a couple of 5.9 moves but mostly goes into 5.8R with lichen covered rock to a 3 bolt anchor. The center line is Where Tunas Flop @ .10b; I was going to work on this summer & see about what condition the rock, anchoring, & fixed protection are in, but haven't had time. Also, a dihedral route more towards the East aspect, Ye Olde Hysterical, also at .10b & don't know what is offered for anchoring & fixed pro there either. Hubbel's book reported the parties as Kevin Smythe & Terry Smith '87 and Maurice Reed & partner '75, respectively.


(See the main crag page -- I've updated beta photo & some info 11-26-08). Jul 17, 2006
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mark,
You will have to let me know how Where Tunas Flop goes, I thought I saw a more clean line to the left or east of the Standard Route. seemed like some nice asthetic cracks run up the main headwall to the east of the Standard. I noticed them from the top at first and when looking at them again from the car it seemed like a line went up to them, I figured it might be Where Tunas Flop.

Keep us posted. Jul 19, 2006
kirkadirka
Down there somewhere
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Climbed this rock today and managed to get well off-rote to the left onto what I think was one of the 5.9 variations before we finally traversed back right and joined up with the standard route on the final headwall/crack pitch. I thought the final pitch was solid 5.8, but I don't have a whole lot of experience with cracks, and I was spent from getting off route. The crack was also a bit wet which was surprising for this time of year. Either way- good, fun climb.

Tried the walk off to the east and ended up bushwacking for a good 45 minutes back to the base. The next time I will rap for sure. Also, the language above in the pitch descriptions is misleading as it says several times "climb up and left" and clearly you need to stay trending up and to the right for the easiest line. Jul 27, 2006
jeffrey
golden,co
[Hide Comment] Two of my friends and I climbed Lover's Leap yesterday and rapped down the right side face starting at the little tree. It held fast, and there is no sign of problems whatsoever. He had placed the yellow sling on it quite awhile back, and it is still there along with the blue one?
Maybe I am talking about a different rap station tree, but it is definitely secure. I mentioned to him reading previously about the tree being loose here on Mountain Project forums, and he stated that it was not acccurate. Please tell me which tree anchor you are referring to? He is going to take his Hilti up there and make some permanent anchors for rappelling by the "tree".
Thanks a bunch. Oct 7, 2006
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.7
[Hide Comment] A shoe-sized rock landed 3 feet away from me at the bottom of the last rap, keep your helmet on!

Fun route, the 2nd pitch is long and fun! I have only lead a few 5.8s and this crux move felt as hard, but the gear is so excellent (reach way up and place a cam, you are basically TRed ) that I would not let this discourage a 5.7 leader or 5.6 for that matter. It's one move and you are over, I am 6' tall, if you are taller this will be easier. If you like this, you will like Mount Thorodin. I almost didn't give it 3 stars because of the traffic noise from 285, but it is a fun climb. Oct 19, 2008
TJ Quirk
Parker, CO
[Hide Comment] While enjoying the view on the middle rappel station after a beautiful climb, I took a rock the size of my fist to the collar bone. Hanging from a sling, staring at the bolt I was clipped into, I thought: 'next time I'm using a locker'.

A few minutes later we pulled the rope, and I took another rock on top of the helmet.

The next weekend we pulled our rappel rope at the third station and it stuck about 50' up- another adventure after the day was 'already over'. I recommend pulling the rope as far to the right (facing the cliff) to avoid crimping it in a boulder that leans against the wall.

Had to leave a cam behind to rap from, but retrieved it uneventfully a few days later.

Going back for more, two bio-hazard warnings admonished us about large amounts of blood on the first ledge (you could hear the flies before seeing anything).

This route brings more to the table than your average 5.7 crag.

  • note: Matt- glad to hear it wasn't serious. Contact me if you want a picture of the signage.
  • note: My dented bone reminds me to use an auto-block on rappel- I would have let go with my brake hand.
Sep 18, 2009
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] If you do the direct start, this route can be done in one pitch with a seventy meter rope. With a sixty, you can climb to the bolted anchor below the final cruxy, though quite short, headwall pitch. It certainly does not need to be done in four pitches. Three maybe if your doing the alternate bolted first pitch, which is nice. Apr 7, 2010
Sylvia P
Littleton, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Three pitches not four or five. For anyone under 5ft 4in, the top pitch is tricky. The hand jams are spread out and hard to reach. Just a heads up. Mar 8, 2011
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
[Hide Comment] I have climbed this many times. It's no harder than 5.5 except for the last short pitch which is 5.7+. I free soloed it in 2007 and went right to avoid crux. Apr 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] Climbed this last week. Good, decent climb. Just be aware of loose rock. Also had a considerable amount of rope drag climbing the second pitch. I placed a piece down low and even though I put a runner on it, it would have been better if I had run it out about 15 feet from the start to place my first piece. Just remember that if you do the climb. May 18, 2012
[Hide Comment] My climbing partner and I did this twice last weekend, the first time had to bail at the 2nd belay station and had to leave a couple biners. Came back the next day and added chains and quick links to the 2nd station so now you can rap safely from there. By attaching two ropes w/ a double fisherman's, you can rap from the end of the 2nd all the way down to the first station, it makes for a pretty quick descent. Sep 6, 2012
Rick Casey
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] I did this yesterday and had great time...the above comments helped us quite a bit! But would add this to Keven Craig's comment of 4/21/2006:

1 - Short rap from the top to the P2 belay (also 2 bolts).

(NOTE: the bolts at the top of climb to rap back down to the bolts at the 'cave' are quite exposed! Only felt safe getting to them on belay.)

2- 55m-ish meter rap to the P1 belay - 3 bolt station on the left (there is also a 2-bolt chain station at about 35m on the right). If you want to bring a retrieval cord rather than a second rope, that worked for us for this rap.

(NOTE: my partner and I agreed the rap to this 2-bolt chain station from the 'cave' bolts needs to be done with a 70m rope, which just reached. A 60m would be too short!)

3 - 30m rap to the ground. (Agree!)

--Rick Casey Jul 10, 2013
Anthony Bruno
Golden, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] A 0.75 protects the crux super well, and once again if you're shorter, it will be a bit more challenging. Us tall folk can just reach for the good hold. Sep 25, 2013
First Track Jack
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The route is definitely at the top left of the talus field and has a bolted route (5.9? ) about 50 ft climber's left of Lover Leap route. You are off route, and it doesn't feel 5.6/5.7. It is also a well-protected route. You could stretch it out into three pitches, but for the nicest belay ledges and less rope drag, four was more practical. P1: had bolts on left side of ledge, these are not the rappel route bolts.

The rap route doesn't mention that you have to go back down to the ledge and bolts before the final crux pitch. We did not see any bolts climber's right by cedar tree as mentioned in an earlier read. R1: there are bolts ~20 ft climber's left after topping out of crux pitch. Head back down to last belay/bolts before crux pitch. R2: the middle rappel is close with a 70 meter, so tie your stopper knots and have a PAS ready. R3: rap climber's right to ground. The approach is steep, and people have left flagging tape at various spots which is silly. Flagging tape breaks leave no trace standards and should be avoided. Try to take the most practical and roughed out trail. If you come off the trail in the woods, head up until you hit the talus field. Very cool route.... May 29, 2014
Eric Mountford
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] The first three pitches felt 5.6. Only the last pitch feels 5.7. Once you top out, head uphill to base of cedar tree for new rap anchors with chains. The first rap takes you to more chains. From here, we used a single rap and tag line to get to bottom (a 60m will work). Didn't see another rap station at the big ledge below this.

We easily did this route in 3 pitches with a 70m rope. Jun 29, 2014
Rocky_Mtn_High
Arvada, CO
 
[Hide Comment] After you top out, it is a lot easier IMO to simply build an anchor at the top and belay directly above the route, rather than scramble to the bolts that are way left (I put in pro anyway to redirect from the bolts). Also, there are new, bomber rap bolts up a few feet farther and to the right that allow you to rap down climber's right and off the main route (three raps total, best with a 70m rope).

Also, we had old beta and started hiking upstream to look for the trail across the creek. It's directly below the center of the parking lot, and someone did a great job putting in a tree bridge (in the shape of a tuning fork) -- nice work, and thanks! Aug 24, 2014
Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] It's easy to descend the route in 3 raps with a 60m. Start at the rap station at the big tree and rap down to the ends of your rope. Rap on good bolts from here angling right to two more good bolts. The last rap is a rope stretcher, but it works. Aug 25, 2014
JD Sutton
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Has anyone passed the piton going up the first pitch? I went up to the right of the sport route, it seemed a bit harder than 5.6/5.7, and I was surprised pulling past a piton. Was just curious if this was on route or not? Oct 20, 2014
Nicholas Aretz
Lakewood, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] I did not pass any fixed gear, except an old tri-cam. From my experience, I would not recommend climbing this route after a good rain. The 3rd and 4th pitch were soaked. I could not stem, and the only thing dry was to the left of the crack. It was still wet in the early afternoon, so I would recommend to wait 1-2 days after raining. Jul 9, 2015
Evan Gohring
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Three pitches. Make sure you start around the corner of the rock from the bolted 5.9 (you shouldn't be able to see the bolted line from the start). If you start too far left, you will make the climb much more spicy (this will become the new crux). Belay at a two bolt anchor, then head up into the left-facing dihedral to the next two bolt anchor at the base of the last headwall. Have heart, the "crux" on the last pitch is not nearly as bad as all the comments make it out to be. Not sure what is with all the crazy stemming photos and comments, look for the good feet. If you have any concept of a hand jam, it should be very easy, this pitch would be 5.6 at Lumpy. You can rappel via those three belay stations using a 70 meter rope. Sep 11, 2015
Chris G.
Lakewood
 
[Hide Comment] My fiancé and I simul-climbed this route 10-11-15. We did it late in the day and made it to the top in about 50 minutes. Does anyone have more information on this wall? The colorful topo picture looks amazing, but I can't read any of it. Oct 11, 2015
[Hide Comment] I grew up in Conifer, and have thought about doing this for the longest time. I wish I had not waited so long! Super fun and classic movement, on solid rock. Oct 20, 2016
[Hide Comment] My follower really jammed a BD #2 in the crux.... I tried every trick I know to get it free. Hopefully it doesn't bone anyone, and merry Christmas to anyone who can free it.... Jul 5, 2017
Beth Sager
Conifer, CO
[Hide Comment] Love this route! Got major rope drag combining P2/P3, though.

On the rappel down the gully, the third rap just had bolts, no hangers. I left a couple of biners on them for the rap. If anyone feels like setting up a chain or some hangers, free biners for you. May 7, 2018
First Track Jack
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] There is a good rap system to the ground but you MUST have a 70m rope. It has been there since at least 2015. The 1st rap station is directly above crux/top pitch, slightly to climber's right. The second rap is about 30 ft below, where you just belayed the crux pitch. This is the must have 70m rope and as always have stopper knots, because it is a full rope length to next bolt station. The third and final rappel is a two bolt anchor that can be seen on the way up, slightly right of the L-facing Dihedral b/w P1 and P2. May 10, 2018
First Track Jack
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Hey hey, a follow up to my last post on current rap station from summit along 5.7 route. The second rap down from summit, which starts at large belay ledge beneath crux is about 3 ft short to next station with a 70m rope. I did not note this last time, since my partner's rope was cut, and I thought he removed a foot or two. Today we used a recently new 70m rope, and it is super tight and sketchy to get to final rap station. Very surprised why station bolter put it there, there is a ledge a few feet above it that would have worked out fine and still put you on the ground safely.... Go figure.... Jun 1, 2018
[Hide Comment] Hello to all who might read this...just came off Lover's Leap, and the rap stations from the little tree on top are all here. There are no missing hangers or chains, and all are in good shape...you can use a single 60m rope with few meters to spare.

Starting with the metolius and chains at the tree... rappelling toward the west following the way the rope naturally hangs. Look for the chains to your left after the little overhang ...rap station 2... rappelling west from station 2, stay west of the large boulder just below the 2nd station ...look for the final rappel with chains. If you stayed west of the large boulder, you will be in line and on top of the final rappel station. From the 3rd and final rap, follow into the gully rappelling over a couple overhangs then on to the ground safe and sound. Walk down the scree and east. You will be back where you started. Be safe, and always KNOT YOUR ROPE ENDS... it is a single 60m rope rappel. Jul 3, 2018
Jake Web
Denver, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I walked off the back towards the east and while I was thirsty and grumpy, it was totally fine.

I also saw some people struggling to rap (couldn't find the rap stations, and then the rope got stuck. It was a mess!) Much safer to walk off the back I'd say! Jul 8, 2018
Mike Endres
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Just finished this yesterday, 26 August, 2018. Everything is as described elsewhere and it certainly is a fine route at an honest grade. The crux is a bit tough if you're not solid at 5.8, but it protects well with #1 & 0.75 cams. There were 4 in our party on two ropes without any difficulties except for the descent. One person elected to walk off to climber's right and was back at the car before the second climber of the other 3 got to the second rap station.... We used walkie-talkies and were happy to have them as Sunday afternoon road noise on US 285 was pretty loud. We were also able to make the first & second bolted anchors in one pitch each on 60-meter ropes, leaving a short, and viewable, lead at the crux. Aug 27, 2018
Jon Banks
Longmont, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Sadly, the beautiful, tuning fork bridge is rotted and destroyed. The stream is crossable right now, but in the spring, it will probably be tricky. Sep 22, 2018
skik2000
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday, and personally I would skip reading all the posts about the rappels and just walk down. I didn't time how long it took us to walk, but it was probably 20 minutes, maybe 30 at most. Oct 28, 2018
Dailyn Vae
Morrison, CO
 
[Hide Comment] So fun! Climbed it yesterday.

If someone wants some climb booty, my almost brand spankin' new BD Camalot C4 (0.75) walked back in the crack just above the coffin rock at the top of P1. After messing with it for a while, the incoming lightning storm forced me to leave one of my star players behind! Sad, sad day. Walkie talkies were a nice workaround to the traffic down below. I feel like both times I've been on this, we've been suckered into going slightly left at the start, making it a little harder. F'real, stay right! The walkoff on climber's right really wasn't so bad. I'd say it was faster than the first time, when we rappelled it. Jun 5, 2019
Evan Andrews
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. You can link the first 3 pitches with a 70m. Jun 17, 2019
David Dentry
Morrison, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this route. The climbing wasn’t too hard with a lot of exposure and a nice alpine feel.

Since most of the other beta is pretty old, and none of the belay stations mention bolts at all, I’m going to write a lot.

First, while the “bridge” is out (broken in the middle), it wasn’t too hard to walk across (even with a fast running, spring creek.

The trail uphill is pretty obvious but steep and some loose spring rocks (no tape on trees or tepee). Cairns mark the way across the talus and ends pretty much at the base of the climb. There is an obvious bolted route (not this climb) about 20 feet to the climber's left.

We did it in four pitches, but three would have been better.

Pitch 1
My kid was leading and was running low on gear, so he only climbed about 1/2 a rope and slung a big, refrigerator-sized block (coffin rock?) and belayed me up from there.

Pitch 2
Heading straight up towards the big “goalpost” rocks, not far, maybe another half rope length, was a fixed belay station with nice sturdy chains. I”m pretty sure you could make it to here with a single 60m rope (we were using a 70).

Pitch 3
Up a good distance, about 35m to another set of chains.

Pitch 4
Shorter, crack climb with a few good moves to another set of bolts right at the top between the goal posts rocks.

Descent

If there isn't anyone else on the route, just rap back down the route. We did one short rap from the top of pitch four down to the top of pitch three.

Then another long rap all of the way to the chains at the top of pitch 2. We were using a 70m and it was a rope stretcher with only a foot or two at most to spare. No way a 60m would have made it down to there. One final rappel, from the chains at pitch 2 to the ground, working slightly climber’s left puts you almost exactly where you left. If you’re using a 60m rope, you’ll have to walk from the top of the climb to the “real” rap stations.

The "real" rap station is about 25 feet to climber's right after you top out, under a small cedar tree. It's kind of an awful, loose, low angle first rap to a second set of chains at a tiny little hanging belay. and then another rap to a second set of chains in the gulley with a slightly better (but not much) stance. And then one more rap to the ground with a little walking/down climbing back to your packs. It keeps things moving on the wall if you climb the route and then rap down this way, but it's slower and messier.

Overall, a really fun climb. I felt it was a little harder than the 5.6/5.7 shown, maybe sustained 5.7 with a few 5.8+ moves on the last pitch. Mar 31, 2020
Scott Chico
Morrison CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Well, it's been 17 years since my wife and I were last on this climb, and it's still a classic! I had forgotten that the climb starts off to the right on a section that you scramble up to (not far). The anchor bolts are a wonderful addition. We were able to do the climb in 3 pitches.

The updated entry by David D. is very accurate, and I second the thought that you MUST have a 70 meter rope to rap down to the stations if you use the bolts just off to the left when you top out! Don't try to skip that first short anchor station below the crux on the rap down, 'cause the rope won't reach any of the further below anchors. Getting to the second anchor chain is tight on a 70 meter rope, so be sure to knot the ends, 'cause I was barely able to reach the anchor to lock in.

Still feels as airy as I remember, and the crux I'd rate as an 8. Great day on my wife's BD.

P.S. We used walkie talkies to make communication so much easier. Jun 19, 2020
Ben M
Dillon
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Soloed this route today, onsight, in 1hr 29 mins, car-to-car. What's the current speed record?

Also word of advice for the walk off descent: once you summit and head S/SW, down the other side, try and hug the rock formation you just climbed as much as possible, and trend back towards the start of the climb. I went straight down the hill (skier's left/west of the formation) and ended up in a gully. This is not advised. It's a jungle down there, but, it is easy enough to follow the sound of the highway back to the parking lot. Fun climb. The cruxes are short, and the climb is ledgy.

Also, the stream is totally dry right now and passable at any point. Jul 21, 2020
[Hide Comment] Ben, not sure if that's sarcastic, but Honnold did it in 4 minutes.
youtube.com/watch?v=Mi4iR4c…. Jul 30, 2020
Ben M
Dillon
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Hey Corey, I am not sure if YOU are being sarcastic, but that is not the same Lover's Leap... I am more curious about the speed record on this formation, in Colorado. Aug 7, 2020
Wilson McKay
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a sweet little route for being so close to Denver! We used the three bolted belays and didn’t see a need for walkies or rope tugs as you can see your belayer from each anchor with a ~4 foot clove hitch. Sep 12, 2020
Jenna B
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 6/9/21 and was able to cross the creek carefully by wading through calmer section just below steep path down from middle of parking lot. Cleaned up some loose rock on rap, great climb. Jun 9, 2021
Some Guy
somewhere, USA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this today. Great route! We started too far left and ended up doing some 5.9-ish first pitch with a piton near the top of this pitch. Once I got a nice ledge where I set up anchor and was going to belay from, I looked around the right corner and clearly saw coffin rock, and it really does look like a coffin leaning upright on a ledge. THE START OF THIS ROUTE IS RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE LARGEST TREE ON THE RIGHT DIRECTLY UNDER THE GOAL POSTS. You should be able to see the goal posts clearly directly in front of you looking up from the ground. The proper start is on the right side of the arete, not the left side near the old bolts.

Approach: from the second pullout [as you're heading back down 285], head down steep scree to the creek. You can either walk over the newly cut down tree-bridge or, if the water is low enough [as it was today], you can cross to the right over some rocks. Take the climber's trail right about 40' and dog-leg it left up a steep embankment under some washed out [possibly muddy] dirt skirting the root of a large tree. At the top of the tree, keep left a bit, and head up & left to the talus field where you'll head up & left. At the top of this field will be the start of very tall trees on your left. The first tall tree at the top-left of the talus field is directly below the start of this route. You should be able to see the goal posts directly above you when starting the first pitch.

Pitch 1: head straight up from below the largest tree on the right. When you get to the large triangle roof, turn left, and you'll see coffin rock. Set a belay up here.

Pitch 2: go straight up the crack system directly above coffin rock, taking the path of least resistance. This is a pretty long pitch, so choose your placements wisely, and have plenty of runners. You will pass the final rappel station on your right with a set of chains. Keep heading [more-or-less] straight up, and this pitch will top out at the cave where your second rap is with a set of chains. This is nice, comfy, large ledge to belay from. This is a really fun pitch and a moderate 5.6-5.7.

Pitch 3: head left a few feet then straight up to a ledge in front of the crux directly under the goal posts. I found the crux to be a bit pumpy while placing gear, but now that I've done it [and I know the placements are bomber and exactly what to place], I'll have my two cams ready to go (#1 and #2 cam) and crank through it. At the top on your left are the anchors for your first rappel [two bolts with rap rings]. Either belay from here, or [what we did] head up & right to the tree, have a seat, chilax, and anchor up at the two bolts/chains under the tree. I found this to be a nice comfy spot to belay the second up and had her anchor up at the rap station at the goal posts [directly above the crux] and had her belay me back over there to rap from there. To make it quick, I just tied an 8-on-the-bight, traversed over, and pulled the rest of the rope over after me.

Descent: 3 raps.

Rap 1: from the first rap station directly above the crack crux at the top of pitch-3, rap a short ways down to the cave where you belayed for pitch 3.

Rap 2: from the top of pitch 2 at the cave, rap off the chains down to that rap station you passed climbing pitch 2. This is EVERY BIT of 35 meters, so knot the ends. The last rap station is pretty much directly below this rap station.

Rap 3: rap off these chains all the way to [almost] the ground. THIS IS EVERY BIT OF 35 METERS, so again, knot the ends, and make sure your rope is exactly at the mid-point before you start your rap. Rap pretty much straight down [maybe a tad to the right, but barely], and end on some dirt where you'll down climb a little to your [climber's] left. Once down on some dirt, downclimb [climber's] left to where you should have started.

Gear: bring a 70m ROPE! You'll need every bit of it to rap off w/1 rope. A 'standard' rack is relative. What's standard in Cochise, Sedona, High Sierra, or Red Rocks isn't necessarily 'standard' here. I had two sets of nuts (and I'm glad I had two sets!) and a set of cams from micro to 3". I could have placed a #4, but it's not mandatory. Bring plenty of slings/runners for the second pitch, b/c it is LONG. Thankfully, you can use up all your gear though on pitch 2, since you're anchoring up to bolts at the top of that pitch. A long sling for coffin rock is a must too, unless you want to sling the rope which works well.

Overall: great climb! The first pitch, although we were off and didn't do it proper, but based on how it looked on the way down, is...meh. The second pitch is a lot of fun, and that third short pitch kicks ass. I highly recommend and we'll be hitting again sometime fo' sho'! Aug 11, 2021
Tim K
Denver, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Agree with Shawn last name, the crux is definitely the last bit of crack before the summit between the goal post!

We linked pitch one and two, the other crux is just above the coffin block but is easily protectable.

For the start of pitch 3 from the chains, some beta says walk left. If you walk up the obvious ramp, it puts you way left. If you find the piton, then go up. It’s going to be very runout with lots of rope drag. If you take one step left, then go straight up. You can follow the obvious crack system which is easy to protect.

As for rapping, if you go back to the tree at the summit, there are some great rap chains. There is no need to rap the route, and a 60m rope is fine to get you down in three raps. Oct 24, 2021
[Hide Comment] Anchor situation:

So, I heard from a party that came down before us that there were bolted anchors for every pitch, but that is not what I found. I have climbed this before and used all natural anchors. This time I wanted to try the bolts as the other party advised, but I ended up looking around for a while for P1 bolts and ended up just building an anchor on the coffin block. Then I took off looking for the P2 bolts and missed them (my partner found them when following). I ended up doing P2& P3 as one long pitch and stopped at the bolts just below the P4 crack.

There's 2 good sets of bolts at the top. One is very exposed just up and left of the crack and 1 is back by a tree to the right.

Now for rapping, we tried to rap from the P3 bolts to the P2 bolts that I'd missed on my way up - and my 60m didn't reach it. They were about 10ft below me. I spent a long time looking around for other anchors and couldn't see anything, so I had to climb back up. We ended up going back to the top and walking off.

Maybe you can rap with a 60m if I completely missed an anchor set, but I'd recommend bringing a 70m just in case.

Also, can't say if you can make it to the ground from the P2 anchors, since I couldn't reach them. Jul 9, 2022
Tom Bruskotter
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Very fun climb on good rock. As Shawn said “THE START OF THIS ROUTE IS RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE LARGEST TREE ON THE RIGHT DIRECTLY UNDER THE GOAL POSTS.” We scrambled up a small talus field to the low point of the base.

We did it as 3 pitches to the 3 bolted belay/rap anchors, combining pitch 1 and 2 (about 120 feet.). At the top of pitch 1 of 4 in the description, I got to the small ledge at the base of a roof after 60 feet(?) where you have to build a belay. I’m glad I chose to continue up fun climbing to a bolted belay on a ledge.

Cool crux on short top pitch is hand-size dependent. It’s thin hands. I have fat hands. Two moves of 5.8 for me with 2 red BD cams at my waist.

The descent was three rappels on a single 70m rope. R1 is very short - back down to the previous belay. R2 & R3 were rope stretchers from great anchors. Jul 14, 2022
MattH
CO / NM / ME
5.8
[Hide Comment] If you've got a long (70-80m) rope and nobody's following you up, rap the route itself instead of using the dedicated rap line which is low angle and unintuitive. When people say 'trend right' for the dedicated rappel, they mean it. You're connecting the dots of the diagonal between the top station and the base of the gulley climber's right. R2 in particular trends hard right. Jul 24, 2022
Sam Chalkley
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Stop putting #1s in there! You can place a bomber #2 right before it tapers down. Sep 6, 2023
Adam Wilcox
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I got a #4 cam stuck right before the P3 anchor. If someone returns it, I'll buy them a few beers at Golden City. Otherwise, enjoy the booty! Jul 9, 2024