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Routes in South Ridgeline, including Cat's Eye Face & Bolt Wall

Black Slabbath V-easy 3
Bolt Wall TR V1- 5- X
Bolt Wall Chimney V0- 4-
Cat Eye Wall: Upper Roof (aka Face It, You're a Flake) T,TR V0 4
Cat Spock Traverse V4 6B
Cat's Eye Face TR V3 6A R
Corner Cling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
Knob Boy Arete V1+ 5
Lynn Hill Roof TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Spock V3 6A
Pin Scar Finger Crack T,TR V2 5+
Revenge of the Nerds V7 7A+
Slab Happy V-easy 3
Tendonitis Traverse V7 7A+
Thin Crack T,TR V0+ 4+ R
Type: TR
FA: an
Page Views: 3,247 total, 17/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really exciting little known classic! Climb up the Cat's Eye route, and start out to the edge of the big roof. At the point the roof undercling/crack goes vertical, reach out right (with your left hand using some devious toe camming) to the crimps on the very outside bottom left corner of the huge roof. Match hands and scum feet under the roof and bump your right hand up several tiny edges heading slightly right and climbing directly up the face above the Cat's Eye's huge roof until you can throw for the good top edge at the left end of the upper roof with your left.

I'll guarantee there won't be any chalk on this one, so have fun figuring the sequence out on your own without the "Paint-by-Number" chalk and ticks of the rest of Rotary. It is probably in the 12d/13a range and maybe harder. It was the only top-rope problem at Rotary that we ever spent this kind of effort on! (We called it hard 11 because we didn't know that 20 years later every one would be upping our ratings on everything so that they could feel like they were doing something special.) Just say that it took [Mammen], Wilford, Blunk, Daly, and myself several weeks to finally get this one; and then Lynn came along and onsighted it! Any of you young guns up to onsighting this "Old Fart" route?

Protection

Use the bolts above the standard roof routes South of the Bolt Wall and maybe a directional from the top of the lower roof cracks finish.

Photos

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This was my favorite problem in Rotary back when I was living in Fort Collins in '93. For another variation, I liked coming at it from directly underneath, using the little 1-finger pocket in the middle of the roof to brace for a dyno around the edge of the roof. Thanks to the late great Craig Luebben for first showing me this spot! Nov 26, 2012