Type: Boulder
FA: an "Old Fart"
Page Views: 2,214 total · 11/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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After getting warmed up on the "Standard" Ship's Prow (Ship's Prow Right by your description) and doing the Finger Ripper try this. Straight up between them, no holds on the other two allowed before the big horizontal ledge at mid-height. If you thought Finger Ripper was sharp, wait 'till you work the opening moves on this; a total tip shredder! A little reachy for me at 5'9" but a really nice hard route up this classic face.


A pad is nice for the last few hard moves before the horizontal break.


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Ugh. Another eliminate. Next time you're up there, Mr. Fart, could you put little pieces of tape next to the legal holds? Thanks. Pads are for wussies, too. Jan 8, 2002
If you don't like eliminates Mr. Coward what are you doing climbing at Rotary at all? Except for the Left Eliminator and a couple of problems on the Mental Block every problem at Rotary, (and Flagstaff,Morrison,etc.) is an eliminate. Lets see, crack is out on Finger Ripper, arete's out on the "Standard and while your at it could somebody please paint a line on Punk so I will know high high I can use my hands without actually being on top? Sorry, but thats what bouldering is about, the sequence IS the "route" and in 99.99% of the time you will have to make the personal choice to grab the "wussies" holds. If you can find a usable hold in the 5' of perfect rock between the Standard and Finger Ripper let me know, I don't need glasses yet so I could point them out from the ground to you. But I agree about the pad thing, I've never used one, but I learned how to fall 30 years ago on the Mental Block before a bunch of lowlifes turned the old landing into the "wussie" landing that's there now. Jan 9, 2002
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
Old fart sounds cool. Apr 16, 2004