Type: Sport
FA: Dave Field and Martin Birch
Page Views: 1,735 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Farris on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a great route usually away from the crowds. It can be a long two pitch climb if you add "Insult and Flatterly, 12c," to it. Note the second pitch has some bolts that are bad and missing. The first pitch is nice and feels committing as you approach the ledge where the anchors are. This climb is located in the fence area to the far right of "Winter Warmer" climb.

Protection

Quickdraws to a two bolt anchor above ledge. This is an established route so check bolts. Addendum: thin gear may be useful around the 1st bolt.

Photos

The crux comes before the first bolt, which is a bit high IMO. Stick clip or a #6 stopper could come in handy. Mar 31, 2002
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
This route was put up by Dave Field and Martin Birch back in 1992 or so. It takes some extra small camming units. I always felt the crux was up higher in the flaring corner. Nov 13, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Darin's comment on the first move is good advice. The corner above is subtle. There certainly are easier 10s at Table Mountain... Jan 7, 2003
This route was not much harder than 10c. The boulder moves up to the first bolt are serious, but if you get moving and don't look back, you'll be there before you know it. The flared dihedral in the middle is definitely the crux. The book says pro to 2"?? Were bolts added to the route? I don't even see where you'd need 2". Small cams could help in the beginning. Nov 19, 2006
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
I'll admit, felt a bit stiff for a 10. A good spot will get you up to the first bolt. The mid section is indeed tricky. Great route, though. Nov 28, 2009
FA: Dave Field and Martin Birch, I was only in on the 2nd ascent. "Basalt and Battery" is another classic name from Dave. We got a wire placement before the first bolt, if you bother to bring gear. We may have also used Lowe Balls up higher. Apr 11, 2013
Great climb, I found the crux to be getting to the first bolt. High potential of ~10 foot groundfall, stick clip or bring gear to make move to first bolt. After that, the rest of the climb is very well-protected. Nov 20, 2017
A BD 0.3 or 0.2 cam will protect the opening crux moves. Jan 6, 2018