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Crack Parallel
5.7+,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 122
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Colorado Springs
> N Cheyenne Canyon
> W Face (The Pinnacle…
Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per
Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per
Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per
Stewart M. Green:
ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend. This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This is a really nice climb. Approach as for
The West Face. Scramble up a gully to the start of the climb. Climb 2 pitches up the slab beside the obvious, left-facing corner system on the right side of the west face. The first pitch has a funky start.
Pitch 1 - there is a hard move, boulder problem really, that goes over a bulge and gets you up to a stance where the first bolt is. It would seem that either side of the bulge will go, but most people tend to favor the left side. Climb the rest of the pitch to the anchors.
Pitch 2 - edge past eight bolts up a superb slab to a notch on the left just below the top of the cliff. Notice the missing anchors on your right. You can go back along the ledge for 10 to 15' to a tree and belay. This tree can be rappelled from to get back down the west face. You can use 2 ropes or 1 rope with a little down scrambling. Or, continue over the top and belay from a tree about 30' back.
Use the standard Pinnacle descent if you go over the top.
Protection
P1: 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor plus stoppers and camming units up to mid-size.
P2: 10 bolts to a slung tree for an anchor for either the left exit (5.7), or straight up exit (5.9) and possibly [a few] small to medium piece above the belay.
Per Reggie Slavens: as a result of a recent serious accident, a bolt has been added to the 'left of the bulge' start option.
[Hide Photo] Ryan Busch working his way up Pitch 2 on a chilly day. (Photo: Ty Warren)
[Hide Photo] On the second pitch. Photo by Lee Rittenmeyer.
[Hide Photo] Brenda on the very short approach to Crack Parallel. The climb looms above on the flat granite face. Its a GREAT moderate climb.
[Hide Photo] On top of The Pinnacle after finishing Crack Parallel. This view shows the top of The Army Route.
With a 60m, you can reach the larger tree (30' ahead and 10' to climber's left at the topout), set an anchor, and walk the belay back to the edge to watch your second. If you tie off when you reach the edge (your second will still be on easier ground, around the first bolt) you can do a decent seated belay at the top and watch your second. Sep 16, 2002
It's the most solid route in the lower canyon; the first pitch is sketchy, as noted by others, but the second pitch is fabulous for it's airyness and good rock (as good as it gets for Pikes Peak Granite, IMHO).
I did not experience the spinning bolts that others have, but the P1 belay is two bolt hangers with a loop threaded cable (american triangle setup). Could be better, but could be a lot worse. Use discretion. There are also gear placements here. Sep 18, 2002
Overall a great route on a great formation and nice exposure. The descent down the scree gully is easy, but one must not mind trashing their rock shoes! Have fun!
I almost said two, but for the Canyon this is as good as it gets. I'd love more pitches, and if there were places for gear this would be a badass gear climb. You know, Sport Climbing is neither :) I'll let y'all figger that one out. May 12, 2003
Colorado Springs, CO
Oakland, CA
We were cold on this shadowy route - next time I'll wear a fleece. Nov 17, 2003
Colorado Springs, CO
PS. anyone ever consider replacing the cable [that's] used to rap off with? I'd replace with chains ;) Aug 15, 2005
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado Springs
Estes Park
P2 has several traverses that make things a bit spicy. Bring alpine draws to reduce rope drag. I've always finished the route straight up thin slab that feels like 5.9 or so (right side), but there is an obvious exit to the left that looks much easier.
I usually tie off to the tree 30' back, then I clove into my rope back at the ledge to watch my climber while I belay.
Enjoy an awesome summit, and descend to the west right back to the car. Aug 24, 2014
Colorado Springs, Colorado
We also neglected to see if there were rap rings and had to walk down in scree, but not wanting to ruin our shoes, we did it in bare feet. 45 min and a few bloody feet later we got our gear from the base of the climb.
BRING YOUR GEAR WITH YOU. May 18, 2016
Aberdeen, MD
Colorado Springs, CO
CO
For 5.7 leaders, this is not a sport route, bring the gear. That being said, it can be climbed only on bolts, but on pitch 1, expect an unlikely but serious pendulum fall between B1 and B2 if you blow it, serious ledge fall if you blow it going for B3, and a very long but hopefully clean fall if you blow it going for B5. After B2 there is a somewhat hidden pin under an overlap that looks rusty but solid which may offer a little bit more protection of you can find it.
On pitch 2, a piece of gear above the belay would be a good idea en route to the first bolt even though a fall here is unlikely. There seem to be 2 variations low on this pitch, I always go left which feels more like the logical line to me. Between the last 2 bolts there is a decent runout but a great finger sized crack that takes nuts or cams appears right where you need it. The angle piton for the direct finish is in great shape. Apr 22, 2020
Manitou Springs, CO
I wish this route had rap rings at the top. It would make for an easier descent than scrambling down the scree gully. Sep 13, 2021