Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,769 total · 52/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 30, 2001 with improvements by Jesse Morehouse
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a really nice climb. Approach as for The West Face. Scramble up a gully to the start of the climb. Climb 2 pitches up the slab beside the obvious, left-facing corner system on the right side of the west face. The first pitch has a funky start.

Pitch 1 - there is a hard move, boulder problem really, that goes over a bulge and gets you up to a stance where the first bolt is. It would seem that either side of the bulge will go, but most people tend to favor the left side. Climb the rest of the pitch to the anchors.

Pitch 2 - edge past eight bolts up a superb slab to a notch on the left just below the top of the cliff. Notice the missing anchors on your right. You can go back along the ledge for 10 to 15' to a tree and belay. This tree can be rappelled from to get back down the west face. You can use 2 ropes or 1 rope with a little down scrambling. Or, continue over the top and belay from a tree about 30' back.

Use the standard Pinnacle descent if you go over the top.

Protection

P1: 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor plus stoppers and camming units up to mid-size.

P2: 10 bolts to a slung tree for an anchor for either the left exit (5.7), or straight up exit (5.9) and possibly one small to medium piece above the belay.

Per Reggie Slavens: as a result of a recent serious accident, a bolt has been added to the 'left of the bulge' start option.

Photos