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Routes in Creekside Wall

A-Frame Roof T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt Route, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Downclimb Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Arete T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lower Bolted Face S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lower Roof Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Aid T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roof Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown at Creekside T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,856 total · 19/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is an excellent route! A beautiful crack shoots up the left side of the wall.

Clip an old piton on your way to the top. This is an obviously attractive line as you are viewing the wall. It starts out very steep, cruxes at the bulge, but look for good finger locks. Hustle past the fixed piton, and ponder the top out.

This one is short, but it packs an old school wallop. Enjoy.

Protection

Stoppers and camming units up to mid-size.

Photos

cliff powers  
 
Really fun route. A must do.... Jun 25, 2007
Chris Mack  
 
"Old-school wallop"...

Damn straight. One of the hardest .9+'s that I have ever been on.

-Mack Sep 6, 2007
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
5.10b
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
5.10b
Old school 5.9+. Some flaring cracks for pro. Burly and greasy. A MUST-DO. Jul 16, 2009
JasonT  
My first trad route. I liked it!! Super greasy and slopey. Sep 3, 2009
England
?
  5.9+
England   ?
  5.9+
THE hardest 5.9 I've ever done. It takes finesse, and time to dial this one in. Jul 4, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
When I was at college in the Springs, we would throw this one at visiting Boulder climbers. A great sandbag. Jul 4, 2010
LawHous
Colorado Springs, CO
 
LawHous   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Short, sweet, and sandbagged. I'd call it 10a/b probably, so 9+ isn't too far off. Takes 0.3-0.75 C4s at the bottom. Up top is some sketchy, old fixed gear, but the climbing is easier. Jul 27, 2013
Andrew Krueger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9+
Andrew Krueger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9+
Climbed this yesterday. SOLID at the grade, haha. Obviously it climbs more like something in the 10 range, but as a newcomer to the Springs, I'm getting the feeling that people around here want to preserve the adventurous spirit of climbing (keeping face routes runout, chopping bolts, 9+ ratings), and that is something I can wholly respect. Very fun little routelet.

Stemming your way up and using face holds keeps the route manageable.

I found this easier than the 'lower bolted face (.8+)' to the right but only because the rock is easier to read than that brittle choss-fest. Nov 10, 2014
Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Caleb Schwarz   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Permanent aluminum head near the top now. Jun 19, 2018

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