This route is mostly protected by fixed eye-bolts. Bring lots of long runners. If the grade is at your limit, you may want to supplement your rack with a few stoppers and camming units to medium size.
Per Ed Anderson: the first pitch has one remaining eye bolt. There are none on pitch 2. This is well-protected with eye-bolts above the deteriorating rock on pitch 3. The first belay is well-protected with 2 bolts. The second belay has one good bolt and one loose bolt. There are no belay anchors at the top Caution - the ledge near the top has a short section of rebar that has been cut in such a way that it's difficult to see that one side is open.
Colorado Springs, CO
I believe Steve found the correct spot to end the first pitch. Be wary that the description lists the first pitch ending after you step left around a roof. This roof is located about 10 meters below the HUGE roof (complete with aid route) and has a chopped pin on the left face. Climb left up over that chopped pin. If you head right across the slab you will find pro which may lead you to think that you are on route. Climbing the small break in the roof may indeed get you up to the P3 belay, but is certainly well above the 5.5 rating. As Steve noted there are not multiple eyebolts in close vicinity so use your trad rack to backup an eyebolt for a belay.
P2 is mostly bolted (and hence easy to stay on route). Similar to P1 you'll need to backup a bolt with your trad gear when convenient. P3 is very low angle with a few bolts but may be a good time to practice your gear placements as the route is covered in gravel (even in good rock areas). Whether you finish at the summit or on the ledge a few feet below you'll need the trad gear to set an anchor.
I wish I had paid more attention to route length but i'd guess the pitches to be 35-40 meters, 25-30 meters and perhaps 30 meters. Though the length is not that long bring your double and triple runners to lower rope drag. Jul 18, 2002
There are a billion variations to this route and it wanders, as you discovered. That said... At the start of P2, move left as you did and then go up through a bolt or two close together. But instead of going up 30-40 ft make it only 10-15 ft, something like that, then move up and right around the corner and straight up again. This stretch is mostly just unprotected though for 30 feet or so, but fortunately only 5.3 or so, no biggie. In general, the best rock is the 1st pitch for sure, but the only really chossy section (if you're on route) is on the final tower, a band of grit about 30 feet below the summit. Dec 8, 2003
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Colorado Springs
If anyone wishes to place bolts in the Canon...or remove them...they could talk to me or Brian Shelton. We have a good relationship with the city of Colorado Springs Park & Rec Dept. and could certainly advise if it's a good idea or not rather than go and indiscriminately slam in bolts...or chop them.
The top of the first pitch of the Army Route has had fixed bolts, formerly pieces of rebar bended with eyes for clipping, since the early 1960s. Ditto for all of pitch 2...Pieces of rebar pounded into cracks.
I think it would be community service replacing those jingus bits of rebar, which aren't designed for the kinds of uses they are subjected to, with proper modern stainless steel bolts and hangers. Preferably with chains and links to facilitate rappelling. A lot of folks climb only the first pitch because it is such a great beginner gear lead. The upper pitches....choss.
Also, the Army Route is not North Cheyenne Canon's original route. Many others were climbed before it was done. Harvey Carter did not do the first ascent of this route either. Duh, why is it called The Army Route? Because Army climbers stationed at Camp Carson in World War II and part of the famed 10th Mountain Division did the first ascent of The Army Route...as well as West Point Crack and Montezuma Tower in the Garden of the Gods.
And it is not a Trad/Solo route as you claim. A hell of a lot of people have been climbing this route before you were even born...I did it first when I was 12 in 1965 and the thing was sewn up with Army funk bolts. First pitch is a gear pitch...the second pitch has almost no good gear and was always protected with the old bits of rebar...the third pitch can be protected with some gear. Very few folks besides my old climbing pal Jimmy Dunn, who has soloed the thing a thousand times, ever solo The Army Route.
Whew! Jul 23, 2009
Colorado Springs
All due respect, but the bolts were improperly placed, and dangerous. Also, the same rules apply to Garden of the Gods, Red Rocks, and Cheyenne Canyon. Is just anyone allowed to go slam in bolts at the Garden/Red Rocks? You apply for the same permit to climb in these areas. Im sorry you felt the need to post on this, but I'm also good friends with the rangers of the Canon, and have my own authority on certain things. No new hardware is needed on this route. Sorry I got the FA wrong, but your right I wasn't around in those days as you have eluded to, but I know you were. Perhaps you need to get with the times, and stop thinking your the only one with authority in the area.
EDIT: A lot more people solo the route than what you are aware of. Jul 24, 2009
Yes, there is no law or rule against placing bolts at either the Garden or North Cheyenne Canon. Red Rock Canyon is a different matter because it was late on the scene and the master plan allows only for measured and controlled development of climbing routes. I have city ordinance 9.9.104 in front of me right now and nowhere does it talk about fixed protection or placing bolts or anything resembling that.
There is a lot of misinformation about climbing being passed around by city and park and rec employees right now. Bob Hostetler, the climbing rep on the board, and I are dealing with that issue right now at the Garden of the Gods since the volunteer ranger crew has been hassling climbers lately that are simply accessing routes via Tourist Gully and other places, but they are calling the police and such because they say the climbers are not on "designated routes." Again there is no language in the ordinance specifying designated routes.
The point is that we as climbers have certain rights and freedoms here that need to be protected. We do not need the city telling us where we can and cannot climb, nor that we can or can not place hardware or update old hardware to properly protect ourselves and other climbers from injury. There are limitations where we can climb, yes, particularly at the GofG, but climbers have an extraordinary amount of freedom in the Colo Springs city parklands.
That said, if the hardware needs to be replaced or chopped on area routes, particularly historic and classic routes like The Army Route, then what happens should be arrived at by a Colorado Springs climbing community consensus. Not some oddball going out and slamming in new anchors on The Pinnacle because they wanted too, nor another one going out and chopping them and further scarring and damaging the rock.
We have this forum here on MP where various COS climbers can weigh in and debate whether or not the hardware on The Pinnacle needs to be upgraded. After a consensus is reached, then we could proceed and say yea or nay.
I agree with you that the previous fixed gear, although old, on The Army Route was fine. There hasn't been a problem with it at all, and most of it could be backed up anyway. The problem is that some guy with a drill decided to unilaterally go out and put new anchors in on a classic route without asking around first to see if that is okay.
I don't know what he placed but I take your word for it that it was probably jingus. If the anchors were replaced they should probably be glue-in stainless steel bolts made to last 100 years. But you also made a unilateral decision to go up and chop those anchors without asking around, Hey, these new bolts are bad, they need to be chopped, is it all right for me to do that?
The last thing we need in the Springs is for people to be going around placing bolts randomly or chopping them. That will get the attention of the city fast and make them think that they is a problem and that the resource is getting damaged.
So really buddy, I'm with the times. I just don't want our climbing areas limited nor our climbing freedoms taking away. Jul 24, 2009
England, I'm confused by your statement that the anchors were improperly placed as we installed them just a few feet above the originals...not changing the route at all. Additionally, those anchors were not unsafe and certainly much safer than the existing piton and rebar setup. We used stainless, 3.5", Powerstud bolts and Metolius Rap Hangers, drilled in solid rock. I'm also confused by the statement you made to me the other day when you said, "we going to get a bunch of top-ropers up here [because of those anchors]". Someone still has to lead that route trad/solo to put it up.
Stewart, we aren't oddballs randomly bolting and we certainly aren't on a mission to rebolt the entire canyon. We simply wanted to provide a nice safe belay for climbers and yes, some anchors if people wanted to top-rope the first pitch (for beginners).
We had no idea that there were any groups to appeal to in this situation for permission to simply retro the anchors. In the future we'll be sure to attempt to gain some sort of consensus (on this site) before proceeding.
Stewart, thanks for all the information. Jul 24, 2009
Anyway, whether there are new anchors up there or not will not lead to a lot of top-ropers coming along and hogging the first pitch of The Army Route. I mean the thing is 5.5 for gawd's sake! And one pitch at that. The swarms will not descend on it. That pitch along with other ones along the nearby wall are sometimes used by guiding services, but that's a rare day.
There is a loosely knit group...Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance...that is headed by Bob Hostetler, who is the climber rep on the park board. It is registered with the Access Fund. Whenever issues have to be addressed with the COS park and rec, US Forest Service, BLM, or other land managers, it is important to have a legit group. They would much rather deal with a group of concerned user then a bunch of people. More clout too.
Anyway, I appreciate you stepping forward and relating what you did and what you used. It sounds like you used good hardware, had good intentions, and are willing to have a productive conversation about this. Jul 24, 2009
colorado springs, co
Colorado Springs
EDIT: By the way Brandon... I cleaned up your friends massive chalk spill at the base of the climb that I witnessed myself along with some climbing partners. Jul 24, 2009
The bottom line is that all the reasons you gave me for taking down those new anchors the other day are false: Its not illegal to bolt, its not a Harvey Carter route, its not an original trad route (as there are several rebar bolts throughout the route), and the anchors were not unsafe. I wish you would admit that the real reason you took them down is because YOU, and your park ranger friend, didnt want them up there for your own personal reasons. You dont like that we put them there and I dont agree with you taking them down, but youre entitled to your opinion JUST MAN UP AND OWN IT. It seems like youre trying to save some face in this situation, after all your other reasons were exposed as BS, by claiming the anchors were misplaced and dangerous which is totally false, gutless and OFFENSIVE. You've shown your true colors...Ive said all I have to say. Jul 29, 2009
Maine
As far as the bolting conversation...there are plenty of old bolts on this route, most of which are highly unnecessary as this route could have gone entirely clean, yet this is understandable given the time and nature of the first ascent. I would suggest that the piton/bolt anchor atop P1 is more than adequate and that in all honesty the Army Route should stay as is. Like Stewart said, it's 5.5 for gawd sakes! This route's old hardwear and the variable nature of the rock are what give this climb its classic and unique charisma, much like many routes in the Garden. Placing/chopping bolts on this route and others on the Pinnacle without reaching a consensus among the climbing community here in the Springs is bound to cause some well deserved upset.
And as far as the rock on the Pinnacle is concerned, there's PLENTY of solid rock to be found contrary to what England suggests. Jun 18, 2011
Denver, CO
We pulled up just short of the top of P1. The picture here (with the bolt and the lost arrow piton) is good; it's still there and you can't miss it.
We also went off-route at the top of P2. When the crack peters out, keep heading up and right. We went for a very comfy ledge to the left (right above the second, deeper crack that runs just left off the route on P2). It was a nice place for some sun and a snack, but we found our bolts 15' higher up. Mar 20, 2012
Spartanburg, SC
From what I could see, there were two places you could set up the first pitch...at the rebar and piton after you pull yourself over a fairly flat ledge or if you keep going (traversing) about 6 or 7 feet farther, you can set up on a comfy ledge with more rebar (only one...you can back it up with trad). I found the second option to be simpler and more comfortable.
As for the second pitch, I found it to be VERY well protected for how easy the climbing was...I only used quickdraws for this whole pitch and had no problem with rope drag. It was a bit run out in places, but it was very easy climbing, so I was comfortable with it. If you stop to belay your partner up the second pitch and you are not on a HUGE flat ledge...you haven't gone far enough. You will know when you get there. If you find the right ledge, it's more comfortable to belay from there than the ground! Where you anchor though, you'll have to back up the rebar with trad if you want a redundant anchor.
Third pitch...I wouldn't go all the way to the summit to belay the second up on the last pitch...not much to anchor yourself on if you belay off your harness and if you belay off your anchor, there isn't really much to make an anchor with up there. A LARGE flat ledge just before topping out is perfect for the last belay. From there, it is REALLY easy climbing anyway...more like scrambling.
The only time I used any trad was on the first pitch and backing up anchors...I was noticing that people said they were backing up the bolts/rebars with trad, but they seemed pretty solid to me. Also, for the guys who are reading this and who are doing this for the first time...on the third pitch, test out a handhold before yanking too hard on it. There was at least one good-size rock (probably about 25 lbs or so) that moved when I tested it out. Jul 7, 2013
Fort Collins, Colorado
Colorado Springs CO
For the second pitch, head left to a bent rebar bolt, and go up from there. The entire second pitch is very well-protected. About all the bolts are the rebar. Be careful to not head left when you come to a fork in the route. It looks better but is definitely off route. When you feel like you should be getting close to the second pitch anchors, climb ten feet more. There will be a big ledge with one bent rebar and plenty of spots to place gear for the anchors.
The 3rd pitch is just about fully bolted with rebar and one eye bolt protection, but there are some spots for nuts and cams. There is one section of choss granite, but the rest of the pitch is pretty solid. You pull over two bulges which are super fun. The rest is just steps. Lots of rope drag though because of the bulges and ledges you have to pull.
Once you top out, there will be a little bucket seat you can sit in and do a Spencer Tracy belay, but if you don't wanna do that, head to the back left side of the top, and there will be a piton. There are good placements around the piton for medium cams or large hexes. From there, you can make a anchor and belay. Once done, there is a easy downclimb on the west-facing side (facing crack parallel).
I definitely recommend it! Apr 5, 2016
Colorado Springs, CO
Tralee, KY, IRL
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs
Woodland Park, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
Colorado Springs
If I could tell you I would, but I’m out of town. It’s my opinion that this webpage full of info plus a mild psyche for adventure will land you atop this mighty-fun classic. Mar 23, 2023
Salt Lake City, UT
This route was NOT recently bolted. There are bolts on P2, but they are old, rebar eye bolts. There are opportunities for supplemental protection on the pitch as well.
@Cooper Juke - FWIW, this route would NOT be my first choice for a solo. The top pitch is extremely chossy and loose. May 13, 2023
Colorado Springs, CO
Bring a standard trad rack. Tricams were also useful. The rock quality was EASILY the worst that I have ever climbed on pitch 2 and 3. The top of pitch 3's rock quality became a little better.
It was nice having some bolts?, as the rock quality was so atrocious.
This climb should have never been established. I don't know how you could rate this anything more than 1 star if you've climbed literally anywhere else. Jul 19, 2023