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Better Rad than Trad

5.12b, Sport,  Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
FA: Tod Anderson
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Crimpfest Wall
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Description

Long (100 foot) line that goes over two roofs on thin holds. Pretty cool. This is the line just right of File Drawer, or, if you prefer, currently route #6 from the left edge of the wall.

Protection

13 bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] Great addition!! This line weaves through a system of corners and roofs left of File Drawer. The route hits you with two thin crux moves around the roofs. Tackle the first straight on, but slip left for the second. Thin moves on crisp edges over each roof. Suck it up after the second roof, you are only half way home. Spacey clips and some mind control are the rest of the story. This is an excellent line and worth all of the three stars that Rich has given it. We had eyed this roof system for close to a year before Tod Anderson put it together and sent home - all in a day. Beautiful climb. Dec 20, 2001
Jay Samuelson
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, probably my favorite on the wall - well, maybe tied with Dave's Dilemma. This line is right of file drawer, not left. Probably the better of the two, although file drawer is also excellent; Better Rad Than Trad is just more sustained, with some thought-provoking movement. Oct 5, 2008
heppnerd
[Hide Comment] onsighted crimpfest and file drawer but got shut down on the second roof on this.Does anyone know if a hold broke? Jul 16, 2012
Tzilla Rapdrilla
 
[Hide Comment] I suppose a hold could have broken, although that one always seemed kind of hard to me. The holds over the roof are kind of small crimps. Jul 17, 2012
Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Rad route.. the bolting is a bit wonky though. Fun climbing! Sep 30, 2018