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Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 2.7 from 34 votes
FA: Brian Mullin, Melanie Tuttle, 4/90
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Witches' Canyon > Main Canyon

Description

Razor Hueco Arete is a great looking line if you like jugs. It is slightly overhanging at the start, then it straightens up. The line does not go directly up the arete, but some outside holds are used. It has great protection and is wonderful for climbers wanting to break the 5.9 barrier into 5.10.

Protection

3 bolts to the anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling the huecos.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the huecos.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lyle Monzyk
[Hide Comment] I believe this route is only 2 stars, because the last bolt on this route is way off route. The huecos and 10a climbing keep you on the arete, while the last bolt pulls you 7 feet to the right. Dec 18, 2001
Darrin Stein
Las Vegas
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Look close at the picture and you will see the bolts line up to the right of the climber (me), and I am not climbing the arete, nor am I off route. Dec 19, 2001
Lyle Monzyk
[Hide Comment] Wow. I guess I was way right, meaning on the arete. I remember that clip being a bit dicey for someone who leads at the 10a level. It is a fun route. One should definitely try it. Jan 3, 2002
Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I agree the bolts are too far right as the natural climbing is closer to the arete. Great route for its height though! It's no harder than its neighbor, Waitress in the Sky, and is significantly easier than Captain America in the main Penitente Canyon, IMO. May 10, 2021
Taylor Hohensee
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] Great climb. The third bolt did feel too far right from the line I followed. Also, the nut on one of the hangers at the anchor was very loose. Could be worth bringing a wrench up there. Jun 14, 2021