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Brother From Another Planet

5.13b, Sport,  Avg: 3.4 from 14 votes
FA: Pat Adams
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

This superb power route climbs the third route from the left side of the crag. Reach the base by rock hopping across the river just below the Buttonrock Resevoir spillway. The furtherst left two lines are New Horizon and Lost Horizon, a bolted arete and an insane finger crack, respectively.

The next line, BFAP, climbs the right side of this constant angle overhanging section of stone on unrelenting powerful slopers and edges. One leaves the security of the initial ramp and right corner launching onto the overhanging face after clipping the first two bolts. Fire immediately into the powerful crux, a big move to a small incut. One amazingly consistent move after another bring one to the top. Stellar.

Protection

Six bolts. Lowering biners have been left in place on the anchor. Also, there is webbing on blocks above for rapping.

Per Jon Linhart: 2 bolts were added to the start with the permission of the FA.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber: Jonathan Siegrist.<br>
Photo: Andy Mann.
[Hide Photo] Climber: Jonathan Siegrist. Photo: Andy Mann.
Beautiful colors on this wall.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful colors on this wall.
Brother From Another Planet, 13b, has draws on it.
[Hide Photo] Brother From Another Planet, 13b, has draws on it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.13a/b
[Hide Comment] Short but sweet. Seemed easier than Old Yellar.
Also, the fixed biner is gone, and there is a single chain anchor in addition to the closed coldshut. May 8, 2012
[Hide Comment] Super route! Four long slashes allow passage up a face that would otherwise be blank. Prospective suitors should note that it's a bit awkward getting up to the first bolt, and stick clipping from the ledge is not a bad idea. Nov 7, 2015
Jon Linhart
Boulder, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Added 2 bolts to the start of this today with permission from the first ascentionist. The intro rock is exfoliating, and the gear is sparse and in poor rock, but now the route is much more enjoyable. Jan 29, 2017
Seth Finkelstein
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Bolt addition is a great upgrade to a great route. Thanks, Jon. The traditional gear leading up the main face was quite marginal and in suspect rock. Cleaned off a large block on the 'ledge', but exercise caution as the rock below the face is all somewhat suspect. Fun route! Mar 2, 2017
Pinklebear
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] I found this route to be pretty challenging for the grade, but power-endurance sprinting has never been my style.

BETA SPOILERS: if you're short and finding yourself frustrated passing bolt two, look high and right for a yellow ball pinch in the same crack that you can use to span left (pop!) to the incut. Clipping bolt 3 is a little heady and not an easy clip. Bolt 4 is clippable, ultimately, off a good fingerlock to the right, or you could probably skip it and gun for the anchor a few moves higher. This is one of those routes where the clips have to become part of your sequencing.

Hella cool! Sep 20, 2019