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Routes in Rock Garden

Big Brett the Baker's Buddy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Line, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bust A Move S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
California Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cetus V11 8A
Come A Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Copacetic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Court Jester S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DOA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Darla Does Buckwheat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fine Young Cannibals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hanging Garden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I+CN'? S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeremy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jugalicious S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Just Do It S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just Say No to Nancy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ligneous Embracer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ninos y Viejos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Honor Amongst Theives V6 7A
Otto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumping Pockets S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reckoning, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Mountain Oysters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rude Mood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shield of Achilles, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slinky + Escalator V11 8A
Super Crack V0 4 R
Team Geritol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terror, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
U2RNXS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallrus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Busted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Jack Hunt, Norman Slade, 1992
Page Views: 699 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Coming out of the cave just right of Buffalo Chips is a very steep line that begins on huge lay-away jugs; this is Delusions, and is aptly named (at least for some of us). Continuous and powerful flake climbing for three bolts leads out of the cave and into gonad-land. This climb is a bit weird in the sense that the pro is so reasonable where the climbing is powerful, but gets really sparse where the climbing gets technical. It is possible to pre-clip a long sling from the bolt above the cave, and this seems very desirable since the run-out comes close on the heels of very pumpy climbing. Pull out of the cave onto a short very technical grey face with reachy moves on good stone. Subsequently, a good horizontal stance can be negotiated via a sizeable pocket. This is followed by more thin edge climbing on near perfect rock. This route might deserve three stars, as consensus demands. The rock coming out of the cave is a bit dubious, but it has held up over the years and may only look as though it will break away. Otherwise, expect excellent climbing, powerful, and pretty scary in the middle - if it is done without pre-placing the draw.

Protection

Eight draws some gonads, and a rope.

Photos

Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Richard's description is right on. My son was lured onto this one due to the early promises of overhanging thuggery. After the third bolt, he was shut down as the climbing got harder and thinner before it transitioned onto the slab. I had to finish the climb to retrieve my draws and found it to be a bit runout and fairly thin and technical in spots above the "crux". Still, it's a worthy endeavor. Jun 13, 2007