PRINT: Rock Climb Loony Toons, San Luis Valley

Loony Toons

5.10b/c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 25 votes
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Leslie Coon, 5/88
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Entrance…

Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021 Details

Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.

Description

Twenty feet left of Persephone is a nice, little, sandy spot with several of the most moderate lines in the canyon, and with bolted 5.7, and 5.8 to be had, these routes are oftentimes the most crowded routes at Penitente.

Loony Tunes is the furthest right of the bunch and involves a bit of bolt protected crack climbing that leads up to some nice, clean crimping typical of the just under-vertical rock here.

Now, since my own belay-spot in Hell has been solidly reserved in advance, I can pose the question "How did Kevin come up with this route name?" Was it, perhaps, that you could coax the word "laugh" out of his own name, was it derived from blots near a crack, or was it perchance a personal moment somehow related to the first ascent? Since I don't know Kevin, I may never learn the answer to this puzzle, perhaps someone else knows.... (Did I just get a Gold Star?)

Protection

Half a dozen (7?) draws and a rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JVonD
Longmont, CO

Great moves through the crack. If you can't top it out to rappel down, you'll rip your rope trying to lower. It totally sucks. Its really hard up top so the whole time your up there trying to make the moves, your stressing your rope big time. Kind of a bummer cause man its good right off the ground. Apr 9, 2003

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM

I really liked this climb. The top half is totally awesome thin climbing. This one tests year feet.The start is a whole different style requiring more strength. This one will test the leaders ability to step up on thin feet and crimpers and commit. Should be two stars. Jul 3, 2003

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO

I wouldn't be so quick to assume that the FA put the bolts near the crack on this route. Bolts have been added on many a Penitente route, and it seems more so lately, especially on easier routes requiring gear.

Anyone know what the route is between this one and Persephone? The route that starts with a little stemming, then climbs up the left side of the tower that Persephone is on? Dec 13, 2005

Jesse Morehouse
CO

5.10b/c

EDIT. After scratching my head over this route location compared to the route description Im going to say it is a little vague but this is the climb IMMEDIATELY left of Persephone. It's so close you could almost start on one and switch to the other. After the first few bolts, they diverge significantly. It is a decent line, albeit with widely spaced welded coldshuts and/or bolts with a committing move or two between them. Probably a tad easier and less sustained than Persephone? Apr 24, 2012

Frank Stein
Albuquerque, NM

I do not recall any 'bolt protected crack climbing' on this. There is a seam going to the first bolt, but I doubt you could get decent pro in. It does open into decent but shallow pods right before bolt 3, with a good horizontal, & I suppose that you could get some creative but okay pro there. This is a good route. 7 bolts. Oct 17, 2016

Matt Touchette
Cody, WY

I don't know Kevin either but heard this name was derived from an interesting lady who had her drill taken away. Jun 11, 2022