East Face South Side
Avg: 3.6 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||166 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on Oct 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great route that climbs the Left (South) side of the East face of Fum. We climbed it with a 60m rope and were able to complete the climb in two pitches the first one being a full 60m.
If climbing with a shorter ropem you may simul-climb or belay at the flake described below (not that good of a belay though)
Start at the low point of the rock just right of the gully that separates Fo from Fum.
P1. Climb a left-leaning, shallow, hand crack that disappears after some 50 feet. This section protect with a couple of small and mid-sized cams. Once the crack disappears, continue up and left towards the East Face Southern arete. You will be able to protect on a flake where the South face meets the East face. This will be your last pro for the next 140 feet. Move back onto the East face and climb straight up the face. This is 5.5 Flatiron face climbing at its best. Aim for the trees on a large ledge that runs across the entire face and belay where you can.
P2. From the ledge, look for a weakness on the head wall on the left side (South) of the ledge, and crank up a 5.6 short section followed by some 30 easy feet to the summit. This section is well protected.
Descent: Scramble down to the Northwest, and find a crack system. The descent in this system is easy but for some 5.3 moves near the bottom. When we climbed it, someone had leaned a dead tree against the wall making this much easier.