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Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way

5.11c, Sport,  Avg: 3.9 from 120 votes
FA: McLaughlin and Schuler, 1987
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon
Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the crux.
[Hide Photo] At the crux.
The canyon felt electric that day.
[Hide Photo] The canyon felt electric that day.
The rising traverse of Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
[Hide Photo] The rising traverse of Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
Going for the dish.
[Hide Photo] Going for the dish.
Continuing the traverse.
[Hide Photo] Continuing the traverse.
At the top.
[Hide Photo] At the top.
Starting the traverse.
[Hide Photo] Starting the traverse.
Seconding this great, gymnastic route.
[Hide Photo] Seconding this great, gymnastic route.
Jay and the Virgin Painting.
[Hide Photo] Jay and the Virgin Painting.
Kevin traversing Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
[Hide Photo] Kevin traversing Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
Thought this was a good shot. I don't know who the people are.
[Hide Photo] Thought this was a good shot. I don't know who the people are.
Walking the traverse.
[Hide Photo] Walking the traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary.... May 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago. Jun 10, 2002
[Hide Comment] I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at chrishanson5@hotmail.com. thanks. Jul 3, 2002
[Hide Comment] Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route. May 26, 2003
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks. Nov 7, 2007
desbien
seattle,wa
[Hide Comment] Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend. Aug 24, 2008
[Hide Comment] A bolt after the traverse was halfway exposed in November. Probably needs replacing. Jan 27, 2009
NEH
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] One of the few big hold endurance routes in the canyon. This is definitely a must do Penitente route! Mar 29, 2011
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] This route was upgraded a year ago, and the two remaining studs were removed/patched 05/24/2014. May 27, 2014
Sam Jones
Colorado springs
[Hide Comment] What's the ethic on artwork on the walls in the canyon? Was the Virgin painted on lead or topdown? Jul 25, 2016
john strand
southern colo
[Hide Comment] Top down, sport painting. Legend has it while suspended in a tire. Jul 26, 2016