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How The West Was Won
5.9,
Sport,
Avg: 2.7 from 274
votes
FA: Jay Fredinburg, 1992
Colorado
> San Luis Valley
> Penitente Canyon
> Penitente - Inner Canyon
Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per
Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual
True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place
October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th.
Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
Follow the main drainage that enters the canyon from the right at
Captain America. As the drainage narrows down, head for the huecoed wall at the end - this may entail scrambling around the streamlet that can run a bit of water in the spring. Excellent hueco climbing to a thin slab await. This line comes well recommended as a rationally bolted moderate on solid rock that provides a good a good introduction to pocket climbing.
Protection
A handful of draws and a rope.
[Hide Photo] You can see the first bolt here. The start is still a good 6' or so out of the photo.
[Hide Photo] How The West Was Won 5/21/2005.
[Hide Photo] Tristan Hechtel flashes How the West Was Won. Photo by Sibylle
[Hide Photo] Brice W. cruising How the West Was Won.
Los Alamos, NM
Denver, Colorado
Colorado Springs, CO
Santa Fe
CO
Boulder, CO
Denver, CO
I followed the guidebook's suggestion of belaying from up top. The anchors are plenty beefy - it was just a fun walkoff in a cool setting. Sep 6, 2010
Spartanburg, SC
Colorado
Golden, CO
Colorado
Monte Vista, CO
The left anchor bolt on the top is a bit loose as well. The hanger moves, and I could move the head back and forth slightly.
Be careful out there! Don't blindly trust bolts! May 21, 2017