Type: Sport
FA: Tod Andereson, Tom Hanson, 1998
Page Views: 2,201 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Sixty feet left of The Sub and just before the cobbled block in the path is a severely overhanging cave with a route starting right off the trail.

Launch up with a series of no-foot campus moves to shag the first draw, or stick clip the second bolt. Between bolts one and two is the crux, which is still causing me some serious dog points (as Andre The Giant said, "I don't understand why you are causing me so much trouble". It must be the feet). From a large, square cut, grey cobble, set the feet for a big reach to an undercling pinch. This is followed by a series of reaches on good cobbles and corners to get the second clip. Pull over the lip, grab a chill, and get ready to rock with great moves, more cobbles, and one more roof.

This a very commendable problem on acceptable stone with great gear. The rock still sheds a bit of surface debris, but this is not a major distraction. Overall, this is an excellent line with a steep and bouldery opening. Kudos, lads!

Protection

Eight quickdraws and a rope.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
The best route I have done at Castlewood Canyon. A powerful overhanging start with big holds followed by sustained climbing above, on mostly good stone, best characterize this climb. Definitely stick clip the 2nd bolt. The rock the 1st bolt is in looks questionable, & it is too low to nicely protect the crux moves to the lip of the first overhang. Above the 2nd bolt, interesting 5.11 climbing leads up a gently overhung face to the second roof. Pulling this .12a roof is the redpoint crux. Jul 23, 2017