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Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender")

5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British


 Avg: 2.6 from 44 votes

Routes in Ruckman Cave

Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender") S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Choss Family Robinson S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Extended Family S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nessun Dorma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shibumi S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waiting For 21 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wreaths of Wrath S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 1,766 total, 9/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 8, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Maybe they should call this the "reclamation" route since it sat unrepeated for years after the first ascent, which left the route in a less-than-perfect state for repeat parties.

Fortunately Western Slopers Jeff Achey and Lee Sheftel became bored enough to have a go at the thing, Achey removing many of the hanging death daggers that littered the route and Sheftel moving a bolt or two. Now it's a pretty fun climb and isn't all greased-out like everything else at Ruckman.

This is the long route on the overhung, pocketed buttress between In Your Face and Firearms. Boulder up a crozzler crack thing then move right into big pockets. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux roof and a perplexing headwall, after which you step right and clip the anchors on Firearms.

Be careful when pulling your rope lest it end up in the fetid mud pit beneath the route.

Protection

10-11 quickdraws.

Photos

I put up this route back in the diem and sadly was not able to remove some scary blocks due to traffic at the base area during the busy time I was there. The X marks scared folks off, even though you did not need to touch them to climb past.

I'm glad Jeff and Lee cleaned up my mess so people can enjoy a cool line with interesting moves. Thanks!

I think my original name was something like "Cap-gun".

Btw, in Idaho we call that 11d (not 12b).
Cheers, DB Feb 26, 2011
Jeremy H
  5.12a
Jeremy H  
  5.12a
This climb has its own anchors, you do not clip the anchors on Firearms. Aug 2, 2007
ac
ac  
The route is named "Return to Sender" in Pegg's guide. Jul 20, 2004
Greaser  
Is this the one that is between Fire Arms and In Your Face? If so, [yeah], this is a very cool route with a little crux at about 2/3 height. Felt about as hard as Fire Arms, but more fun to climb. Jul 20, 2004
john bissell  
 
Finally climbed this route. Always wanted to get on it even when the humongous pillar was splattered with a chalky "X," but belayers were scarce whenever that route was mentioned...come to think of it I can remember talking some people out of doing it so I didn't have to endure an Eiger Nordwand belay simulation. Great job by Lee Sheftel and Jeff Achey (?et al) for what must have been an epic cleaning job. Jul 19, 2004