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Just Right

V7, Boulder,  Avg: 3.3 from 97 votes
FA: Jim Holloway, 1973
Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Capstan

Description

This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.

Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.

Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing sidepulls seven feet up, Just Right has also been done at V10 from the low start by Skip Guerin and Ben Moon. There used to be a perfect cheater stone in place for this problem, but it was built into the retaining wall next to the boulder. Now people either stack up pads or make a small cairn of sorts to gain the holds.

Muckle on to the opposing sidepulls, lunge for the pocket, kick your feet back on, and crimp your way over the slabby lip. A Chris Hill problem, Just Wrong, hits the pocket with the left hand instead.

Should you despair in your bid for summit glory bear in mind that Colin Lantz did this thing in Tevas with a lit cigarette in his mouth on a greasy summer evening.

That should light a bit of a fire under your ass....

Protection

A crashpad and a cheater stone.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finishing up Just Right. CLASSIC.<br>
<br>
www.olmecapparel.com<br>
@olmecapparel<br>
@cvalencia31
[Hide Photo] Finishing up Just Right. CLASSIC. www.olmecapparel.com @olmecapparel @cvalencia31
The hard top section.
[Hide Photo] The hard top section.
Only the beginning of Just Right.
[Hide Photo] Only the beginning of Just Right.
Just Right.
[Hide Photo] Just Right.
The feet cut sometimes.
[Hide Photo] The feet cut sometimes.
Setup for the pod move.
[Hide Photo] Setup for the pod move.
M.Z. moving through the bottom section.
[Hide Photo] M.Z. moving through the bottom section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I was under the impression Jim Holloway did the FA on this Matt. Am I wrong?

Secondly, the low start you mention ... that begins off the thin sidepull/underclings right?

Anyone done it from the sds? There was some banter about this on the FRB site recently, but no info. Feb 16, 2002
[Hide Comment] Also ... PB's guide says Chris Hill's Just Wrong fires directly from the first two opposing crimps to the pocket w/out the use of the higher "seam" hold for your left hand.

Doing that move as a crossover seems unlikely. Any clues?

Thanks Feb 16, 2002
[Hide Comment] So is the obvious large edge out left off route? I haven't tried the problem yet, but it seems like you'd naturally want to shoot out to IT instead. Feb 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] I'm pretty sure that edge is not going to help you land the throw to the pocket. You will probably want to use the pincher/corner/seam hold to throw for the pocket. Feb 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] Then again, Bob Horan says Just Right skips the pocket altogether ... whatever. It's a great line. Feb 25, 2002
[Hide Comment] ...the obvious and classic way to do just right is WITH the pocket. after that, maybe someone should try to do it w/out the pocket. however, none of the described lines (including just right v7, just wrong v8 and direct just right v9/10) skips the pocket ALTOGETHER... Mar 2, 2002
misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Pinklebear. Dec 30, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
[Hide Comment] I saw that knee!!! haha:-) nice send! Feb 26, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] vimeo.com/21045582

More Capstan video, see mountainsandwater.com/2011/… for details. Mar 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if the start hold for the right hand has gotten worse in recent years? Ten years ago when my max V-grade was 3 numbers lower, I could do the first move regularly. Now I can't do it at all, it feels harder than any V8 on the mountain. Am I just imagining this?

Edit: the answer is no, the hold is the same. I think I was just grabbing the wrong part of the hold. Sent it this weekend 4/2024, 20 years after first touching it. Actually feels on the grade for the old school problems on the mountain, aka still hard. Oct 8, 2020
Justin M
Middlebury, VT
[Hide Comment] Feels harder than any V8 or V9 I’ve tried. Sep 20, 2023
Quin Browder
Boulder, CO
  V7+
[Hide Comment] There are 3 starts to this problem now: Just Right, V7; Just Right Lower, V9 (slightly lower right hand); and Just Right Sit, ~V12 (sit start from the pocket). Here is my video of the sit start: youtube.com/shorts/X1SAW2Jb…. Feb 10, 2025
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] Good video on the sit, but sadly, since the shelf crimp-slot at the start was chipped, the difficulty of that start into JR is probably closer to V10. It may be a little harder for shorter folk. Feb 11, 2025