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Routes in Rock Garden

Big Brett the Baker's Buddy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Line, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bust A Move S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
California Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cetus V11 8A
Come A Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Copacetic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Court Jester S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DOA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Darla Does Buckwheat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fine Young Cannibals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hanging Garden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I+CN'? S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeremy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jugalicious S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Just Do It S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just Say No to Nancy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ligneous Embracer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ninos y Viejos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Honor Amongst Theives V6 7A
Otto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumping Pockets S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reckoning, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Mountain Oysters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rude Mood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shield of Achilles, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slinky + Escalator V11 8A
Super Crack V0 4 R
Team Geritol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terror, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
U2RNXS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallrus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Busted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Schuler, 1989
Page Views: 994 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Perhaps it is stretching to post three stars for Rude Mood, but this route is a personal favorite of mine.

A couple of hundred feet past the second drainage is a chocolate colored buttress that is carved out as something of an inset that is part of a left-facing corner system.

Start climbing in the slot on the right and try not to stem too much. There are good hands deep in the slot that allow you to move upwards without the stem, however, the stem is almost too logical to be avoided and it is a toss-up as to how much it affects the over-all grade. It is also highly rationale to bail out right on a ledge system at 30 feet for a complete rest. To keep up the continuity, avoid the rest. Tricky and fingery climbing puts you back on the face for 35 more feet of continuous edge climbing.

Fairness would drop a star for the possibility of steming off the ground and resting at mid point. Nonetheless, this route is too cool to lose any points - analogous to the beautiful coed begging for grades, who can refuse? You can cheapen the date a bit further by scrambling over the top to toss a TR on Dr. Duane on the adjacent left buttress. Three stars for the cool moves, thin and technical edging, continuity, good stone, and well reasoned pro.

Protection

Seven or eight draws and a rope.

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NEH
 
NEH  
 
Avoiding the holds in the slot, not using the stem, skipping the rest and sticking to the pocketed face down low makes for an excellent sustained 5.12 climb. Well worth it. Apr 3, 2011
I couldn't agree more with Tim's comments regarding DOA. I tried this thing about 6 years ago and felt the same way. May 24, 2005
tim naylor
  5.12b
tim naylor  
  5.12b
I would like some info on doa. pulled of about 6 holds getting to crux. doesn't seem like it had been climbed since first ascent, if ever. very sharp and hard crux Mar 22, 2004
tim naylor
  5.12b
tim naylor  
  5.12b
Felt a little stout for .12a. Mar 22, 2004