Type: Sport
FA: Wayne Smith, Glenn Schuler, 1989
Page Views: 180 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Immediately left of Darla and on the adjacent buttress, FYC climbs up steep terrain on a system of near perfect edges. The climbing is continuous and fairly relentless for the grade. It seemed as though every move was close to 5.11 and the cruxes start coming at you right off the ground. FYC comes highly recommended for the good stone, continuity, and relentless evolution of sequences.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

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tim naylor
  5.11b
tim naylor  
  5.11b
Good climbing with a few quick rests. It is tricky and friable at the upper crux. Jul 16, 2004
cranshark  
 
Great route! DO IT! DO IT! Couple of things to be aware of, the flake just past the 6th bolt feels like it's ready to go at any moment, try to work out to the right and avoid it (or bring yer glue!) Also, the anchors are open shuts so don't go wandering too far above it, although it's easier to clip when they are about waist level (at least for me!) Jul 27, 2004
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
This is one of the best routes in Penitente at the grade! Long route with sustained climbing with a wide variety of moves. It's worth the walk to the Rock Garden. Do it! Jun 13, 2007
This is Choss. This isn't worth glueing, and this DEFINITELY isn't Penitente or Rock Garden's best. I can name 4 of the same grade that are better. AVOID. Nov 1, 2012
Allen L
Del Norte, CO
  5.11c
Allen L   Del Norte, CO
  5.11c
Really good moves but rock quality only okay. Very hard onsight for grade. Felt harder than any other 11b in area. Oct 2, 2016