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Routes in Rock Garden

Big Brett the Baker's Buddy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Line, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bust A Move S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
California Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cetus V11 8A
Come A Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Copacetic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Court Jester S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DOA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Darla Does Buckwheat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fine Young Cannibals S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hanging Garden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I+CN'? S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeremy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jugalicious S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Just Do It S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Just Say No to Nancy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ligneous Embracer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ninos y Viejos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Honor Amongst Theives V6 7A
Otto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumping Pockets S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reckoning, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Mountain Oysters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rude Mood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shield of Achilles, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slinky + Escalator V11 8A
Super Crack V0 4 R
Team Geritol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terror, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
U2RNXS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallrus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Busted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Wayne Smith, Glenn Schuler, 1989
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Immediately left of Darla and on the adjacent buttress, FYC climbs up steep terrain on a system of near perfect edges. The climbing is continuous and fairly relentless for the grade. It seemed as though every move was close to 5.11 and the cruxes start coming at you right off the ground. FYC comes highly recommended for the good stone, continuity, and relentless evolution of sequences.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

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Allen Law
Del Norte, CO
  5.11c
Allen Law   Del Norte, CO
  5.11c
Really good moves but rock quality only okay. Very hard onsight for grade. Felt harder than any other 11b in area. Oct 2, 2016
This is Choss. This isn't worth glueing, and this DEFINITELY isn't Penitente or Rock Garden's best. I can name 4 of the same grade that are better. AVOID. Nov 1, 2012
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
This is one of the best routes in Penitente at the grade! Long route with sustained climbing with a wide variety of moves. It's worth the walk to the Rock Garden. Do it! Jun 13, 2007
cranshark  
 
Great route! DO IT! DO IT! Couple of things to be aware of, the flake just past the 6th bolt feels like it's ready to go at any moment, try to work out to the right and avoid it (or bring yer glue!) Also, the anchors are open shuts so don't go wandering too far above it, although it's easier to clip when they are about waist level (at least for me!) Jul 27, 2004
tim naylor
  5.11b
tim naylor  
  5.11b
Good climbing with a few quick rests. It is tricky and friable at the upper crux. Jul 16, 2004