Type: Trad, 14 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Kor, Culp
Page Views: 4,483 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a great Black Canyon adventure with route finding being the crux. As the new book suggests it is very worth while to scope the line from the balanced rock overlook. Head down the easy Long Draw gully till about 100m above the river (40 minutes). There are four established routes on a buttress to the right of a large chimney system which can be seen from the base of the route. It is likley that you will cross sections of different routes as there are many options once on the climb.

The start is tricky to be sure of but just stay right of the chimney and look for the best rock. There are some lines that look very improbable but are quite nice and have much better rock than the more obvious weaknesses. There are some spicy run outs on this buttress but the climbing stays pretty easy. Most of the route is face climbing! If wavering between going right or left once on route, I found it always better to stay to the right on steeper but cleaner rock. The route is between 11 and 14 pitches. When it looks like you are at a dead end at the end of the route sneak around the left side of a steep and blank face with a tree to a nice low angle corner/crack system. Scramble up a bushy gully to reach the rim. I encountered one or two suspect belay anchors and veered off route into some 5.9X climbing on horrible rock but the intended route genera;ly stays on solid rock and is very enjoyable.

Protection

Standard Black rack with a some RPs and extra runners.

Photos