Avg: 2.4 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 14 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||4,483 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Bryson Slothower on Nov 14, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The start is tricky to be sure of but just stay right of the chimney and look for the best rock. There are some lines that look very improbable but are quite nice and have much better rock than the more obvious weaknesses. There are some spicy run outs on this buttress but the climbing stays pretty easy. Most of the route is face climbing! If wavering between going right or left once on route, I found it always better to stay to the right on steeper but cleaner rock. The route is between 11 and 14 pitches. When it looks like you are at a dead end at the end of the route sneak around the left side of a steep and blank face with a tree to a nice low angle corner/crack system. Scramble up a bushy gully to reach the rim. I encountered one or two suspect belay anchors and veered off route into some 5.9X climbing on horrible rock but the intended route genera;ly stays on solid rock and is very enjoyable.