Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Desimone, 1994
Page Views: 3,226 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

Formerly known as Man-tasia, the full name of this route is "Pick a Peck of Perfect Pulling Pockets".

This short route ascends a bulge right of Fantasia (two lines, there is a spanking new 10ish line between these). A quick crank past the first bolt (one can dilute the grade by climbing right) leads to a shake before pulling into the pumpy bulge. At the top, make an interesting move before a short slab leads to the anchors.

This is a borderline two star route. The grade may be soft, especially for those vertically enhanced individuals.

Protection

Four bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

This route should get 3 STARS all the way. It's definitely one of the best routes I've done at Shelf. Killer pockets, and no matter how tall or short you are, the moves coming over the bulge are rad as can be. Be sure to hit this one, especially if you're pumped and want something a tad shorter. Jan 13, 2002
***excellent*** an easy red point for its grade.........I think due to the fact that it's SHORT!!! A fun climb to jump on if you aren't into the long pump fests of the surronding routes!!!! Nov 6, 2002
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11d
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11d
It has been a while since I did this route, but it felt a little easy for 12a. Nov 25, 2002
Joe Desimone
Ward, Colorado
  5.11c
Joe Desimone   Ward, Colorado
  5.11c
Glad to hear this route has been providing plenty of climbing entertainment to those who wish to try it. I bolted this route back in the summer of 1994 with no expectations other than it looked cool and offered great potential for a short fun climb. The "official" name of this route is "Pick Pocket", derived from a well-known broadcaster voice-training tongue twister. The complete name actually is "Pick A Peck Of Perfect Pulling Pockets" (say it as fast as you can 3-4 times). It becomes obvious when you do the route why such a name is so appropriate. Of course, speaking the full name is a mouthful, so Pick Pocket was chosen as the abbreviated version for those who wish not to tie up their tongues like certain climbing ropes we know too well. My original rating for this route was 11c and I believe it still holds true after 10 years. Powerful pulling through them there pockets... yessir.

Happy Climbing, Joe Desimone Spring 2004 May 23, 2004
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11d
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11d
Great fun. short and freakin sweet. Easy red point but bouldery, I'd say 11d. Jun 9, 2008
NEH
NEH  
This route is a blast! 11+ or 12-, I'm not sure, but either way, it is an excellent route and definitely worth getting on. Feb 18, 2011
drewhouser
  5.12a
drewhouser  
  5.12a
Crux move over the lip goes at 12a for tall folks and 11d for short folks...just one of those weird spots that favors being a little more vertically challenged. Regardless, even once you get the move dialed, it felt like a perfect V4 move that is so much fun every time. Short and sweet...but then lame after bolt 4. Oct 31, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
I totally disagree. I am an average height male at 5'10", and I thought my height helped if anything. I thought this was a 11c and maybe 11d for short people because of the huge move out left to the huge tick mark. Certainly not in the realm of 12a, like Hot Beach, Blade Runner, or Super Suka. I would say this is easier than Lats Don't have Feelings and Gravitation (Both 11d). More on the grade with Whiteman's Burden (11c)! GREAT ROUTE ONE OF THE BEST AT SHELF!!!! SCREW THE GRADE, JUST GET ON IT! Feb 15, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
Solid V4 over bulge to big left move above last bolt, equals 12-. At 5'6", I thought that this was way harder than "Lats" or any of the other 11d's mentioned. Quality. Feb 22, 2016
Jeff Buhl
  5.12a/b
Jeff Buhl  
  5.12a/b
I may have missed a sequence, but I found it rather difficult for the grade having easily done Affluenza and White Man's Burden early. Anchors on this one need to be replaced (old welded shuts). If I get down there again, I will bring the equipment to do the job. Mar 28, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
An inspiring bulge with rather blah movement. It's just a ladder of pockets tilted back 10 degrees. Thunder Tactics has a similar angle with way better movement. Fantasia is next to it, nearly vertical and is still a more dynamic climb than this. The setter has no imagination and should have put the pockets in a better position. Fire them! Jan 22, 2017
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Fun climb, just wish it was longer. Dec 15, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
Branty   Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
Pick the right pockets! Mar 25, 2018