Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk. USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info:
fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Avg: 3.8 from 411
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
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Golden, CO
For me, this route was the biggest on a string of "finds" that began with Jolt Cola @ Blob Rock and ended with Empire @ Easter Rock. Ric Lietner was my main partner for many of the first sport routes on Blob, Security Risk, and Animal World. Kirk Miller joined us at Ric's new crag, Bean Liquor Wall where we saw Animal World for the first time. We three hiked over that cold winter evening, pulled by the magnetism of the best wall yet.
Mark was neither with us that night, nor when we bolted the first sport routes at Animal World. I would still count him as a team member on every route I have done in the canyon. After being harassed at Morrison for my bolted overhang, I noticed that the choppers backed off when Mark was on the team!!! After our initial routes on each of the three rocks we'd tell Mark and he'd say: "It's just a slab." Then he'd come check it out, get psyched, and put in a bunch more routes. Our cadre was the first to always install 1/2" powers five-piece bolts, 2 bolt anchors, and put in routes that required only quickdraws.
There was urgency because Eldorado Canyon and the Flatirons had been closed to new sport routes. Twenty-five years ago no one knew that routes like Sunset Boulevard or the Shaft would eventually be allowed. Boulder Canyon seem the last hope for decent sport routes. To get the ball rolling, Dan Hare quietly put in the first long sport route, the New Ticket. Next, we helped as mentioned above. It was at Animal World that the ball got really huge with many others helping to push it along. Finally, sport climbing became acceptable. Even better, in 2017 National Geographic reported Boulder Canyon as the happiest place in America!
We understood the legalities of bolting on USFS land, it's okay. Nonetheless, the same individuals who successfully triggered the bolting closure in Eldo eventually contacted Arapahoe National Forrest requesting a Boulder Canyon closure. The rangers refused! Here's the funny thing though - These same individuals were among the first to show up and climb our new routes. Eventually, they started putting in their own sport routes across the canyon at Vampire etc...
PS, There were previous comments that others below refer to. I deleted them because one comment box per route is enough from me. Aug 11, 2003
Tie a knot in the end of your rope! Always! And a stopper knot, not some weak-ass figure eight. But you knew that.
Feb 1, 2006
Brighton, CO
San Diego
Of course if you compare it to Jules Verne, the Edge, Astroman, the whole discussion is irrelevent, bordering on moronic.
My take on bench mark Boulder Canyon sport grades ONLY is.
Freewillie -10d/11a (soft)
Global Gorilla -11b (solid)
Animal Magnetism -11c/d (solid)
Empire of the Fenceless (ER) -11d/12a
Hot Flyer (USR) -12a
Tell Tale Heart (ER) -12a
Plan B (USR) - 12b (solid)
Animal Instinct -12c (solid)
Of course people disagree on these, but relative to each other, I say it's about right. Jan 3, 2007
Plan B is much easier for me than Tell Tale Heart, essentially the difference between onsight and total flail.
I'm far more likely to fall at the 2nd crux of Animal Magnetism than at any point on The Edge. My approximate lifetime batting averages on these two climbs: AM .250, TNE .970. For that matter, I like my chances less on AM than on any pitch of Astroman except for the hard (traditional) version of the boulder problem.
Have I crossed the border into full fledged moronism? Jan 3, 2007
San Diego
I guess to fine tune my point is: ratings from one side of a particular crag to another is a relavent debate, or one end of canyon to another.
However, to compare two different styles of climbing or two areas, i.e. Yosemite crack climbing versus Eldo slab climbing versus Rifle steep limestone, is comparing apples to oranges.
Eldo 5.11 does not equal Boulder Canyon 5.11 does not equal Yose 5.11
Grades are basically area and style-dependent.
One man's nightmare is another's daydream.
Just my opinion. Jan 4, 2007
Boulder, CO
Warning: beta ahead.
Short person beta - for the lower crux - from the decent hold just below the 4th bolt, reach up and left and grab the large sidepull left of the bolt with both hands. Put your right foot on the hold where your hands just were (high step to the hold below the bolt). Then layback/highstep/rock up on to your right foot, reach up and get the finger pocket above the right bolt with your right hand. Next bump up to the jug just above the pocket.
For the upper crux - work your hands up the left sloping rail until your left hand is on the third decent hold - between the two large jugs lower down and the small crimper further up. Move your feet up to the two decent incut feet, then reach up with the right hand to a small, wet, slimy hold just below a large chalked jug. Hop your left foot up and go for the jug. May 15, 2007
Note on the rating: anyone below a certain height (185 cm??) will find AM's rating quite solid as the second crux will not involve a long reach to a great jug, but instead popping to the jug from a nubbin which is almost always wet. May 19, 2008
Seattle, WA
Boulder
Kearney, NE
Boulder, CO
Jesse Apr 23, 2010
Innsbruck, AT
Portland, OR
Regardless of the grade this is an amazing climb and absolutely worth getting after! Jun 13, 2012
Longmont, CO
Boulder
Castle Rock, CO
Lakewood, CO
Redmond, WA
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
The anchors now equipped with beefy lowering hooks, courtesy of the BCC. Consider donating! Jul 24, 2020
Boulder, CO
I mentioned this on the route page comments, but posting here as it’s likely more generally visible.
I believe that adding a steel permadraw on the bolt 8 or 9 - just before or after beginning the underclingy rising traverse - would make the process of a leader cleaning this route much easier and safer (provided knots at the end of rope and a 70m - still have yet to determine necessary rope length, but 60m seems likely insufficient when cleaning with a perma-directional).
I’m intending to do so, as long as there aren’t reasonable objections from the community or objections from Ken Trout.
Posting here as FYI public notice and/or in case anyone wants to beat me to it!
Will update/delete this comment once it’s done. Mar 5, 2021
Idk anymore
Duluth, MN
Oh, and this route is dope AF; get on it! Apr 3, 2022
Denver, CO
If you find bad/dangerous/missing bolts, please report them at forms.gle/7Bot49bi87jXvstV8. BCC tries to get major safety issues fixed within 24 hours.
All other bolts on this route were also replaced in 2022 with hardware provided by BCC. You can learn about bolt replacement, join BCC or donate to the anchor replacement program at boulderclimbers.org/bolt-re… Aug 1, 2022
Firestone, CO
This is my first 5.11c I’ve ever done and so far, my favorite.
Animal Magnetism has 4 distinct cruxes. The first is the hardest IMO. The fourth is navigating your way to the chains while pumped. Have fun! Sep 9, 2022
Golden, CO