On the Rat Brain next to Kim is a proud fatty. This has got to be one of the hardest 9s I've ever seen. It is sustained with a tricky pod fairly low that is hard to get gear into (I wish Wild Country made a #7 Friend), but it is possible to toprope if you want practice suffering.
[Hide Comment] Totally agree on the #7!!!!! This is another one of those famous routes credited to my earlier stage of learning to climb. I watched my friend Kevin suffer and bleed on this with nothing bigger as far as cams than a #3.5 camalot and no big bros. I think we had a set of curved hexes. But once you're in the crack your in. there's no escape.....
Dec 11, 2001
[Hide Comment] In July of 2002 (7/5/02) this crack was pretty full of birdy doo. I wanted to climb it, but after having a good look, decided that it was not important to me.
Jul 7, 2002
[Hide Comment] It's pretty and it's pure, with views out over the range. This was my favorite route at Vedauwoo back in passive tube-chock days.
Jun 14, 2004
[Hide Comment] I did end up doing the route in 5/15/2004. The Anon poster is correct- it was clean of PooPoo at that time. I know wasn't thinking of Skull when I said that though, I think in 2002 there was poopoo. Skull is not on this section of rock & I checked it out independantly on another occasion. Skull was closed this summer by a handwritten "raptor" note at the base.In 2004, I found Fantasia was a decent route, strenuous, and unprotected down low without tubes/big-bros, due to it's very large size starting off. Pretty fun overall.
Sep 22, 2004
[Hide Comment] Great route! The crux at the beginning does protect with small cams in the horizontal crack, just bring some runners. This gives you pro at your waist for pulling into the crack. Be sure not to blow your big gear too early like me or you'll be faced with a big runout.
Oct 3, 2005
[Hide Comment] Great route. I got to follow Trever on this last weekend and thought it was one of the best offwidths I'd climbed. 4 #5s and a #4 seemed to be right for the gear.
May 16, 2008
[Hide Comment] When we went up it (5/30/08), there was a fair amount of dried blood on the rock, testifying to the Total Thrutchfest nature of the route. As so often the case at Vedauwoo, getting into the blasted crack was the crux for me--but I'm short, and that can make a difference. Once in the crack, it's a great offwidth, truly a lot of fun. I didn't lead it, so can't testify to gear....
Jun 1, 2008
[Hide Comment] Probably one of the best fatties I have done at Vedauwoo! Just enough thin crimps in the crack and edging feet on the outside to make it a solid 5.9. A small piece protects the very beginning, after which you can throw in a #6 C4 to protect the initial thrash. I wish I had another #6 about halfway up...besides that, a #5, a bunch of #4's and even a #3 C4 came in handy.
Jul 5, 2011
[Hide Comment] VERY fun climb! Sent this fat baby in the middle of a thunderstorm - the rain didn't affect the climb whatsoever. Classic 5.9 offwidth testpiece.
Jul 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] The first ascent was by John Garson and Jeb Schenck in November of '70, I think (I'm getting so I can't recall). It was originally rated as Voo's 1st 5.10--then downrated to 9. It was very strenuous, and we had only two pieces of pro, tubes I believe.
Apr 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] I liked having doubles from 4-6. A 7 would be sweet. A 3 or 4 BB goes in up top, but I didn't really need it on lead. Loved them on toprope though. My favorite crack so far.
Jul 12, 2022
[Hide Comment] A fantasmic journey to test your Voo skrilzzzzz. Do yourself a favor, and leave the helmet on the ground to start. Don't get tunnel vision through the crux.
Aug 19, 2022
[Hide Comment] If you're going to use the anchor to lower or belay a follower, a possible BD #2 could be placed in the right crack just before the anchor to prevent the rope pushing in the gear into the OW.
Oct 11, 2022
Avg: 3.5 from 150
votes
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Around Boulder, CO
Golden, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Longmont, CO
Lyons, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
Sacramento, CA
Durango, CO
Durango, CO
Salt Lake City, UT