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Fantasia

5.9, Trad,  Avg: 3.5 from 99 votes
FA: John Garson and Jeb Schenck, November 1970?
Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Poland Hill
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

On the Rat Brain next to Kim is a proud fatty. This has got to be one of the hardest 9s I've ever seen. It is sustained with a tricky pod fairly low that is hard to get gear into (I wish Wild Country made a #7 Friend), but it is possible to toprope if you want practice suffering.

Protection

Lots of fatties.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Izak getting a hand/fist stack.  How many 11 year olds do you know that can hand/fist stack?
[Hide Photo] Izak getting a hand/fist stack. How many 11 year olds do you know that can hand/fist stack?
Fantasia.<br>
August, 2010.
[Hide Photo] Fantasia. August, 2010.
Izak showing some professional wide crack technique.  Check out the arm bar and behind the back palm combination.
[Hide Photo] Izak showing some professional wide crack technique. Check out the arm bar and behind the back palm combination.
John heading towards the top.
[Hide Photo] John heading towards the top.
Alexis Scott on Phantasia
[Hide Photo] Alexis Scott on Phantasia
Stuck....
[Hide Photo] Stuck....
Getting into the meat of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Getting into the meat of the climb.
Rick Sanders just getting to the easier section in the middle of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Rick Sanders just getting to the easier section in the middle of the climb.
[Hide Photo] untitled
One of my first leads my first year in the Woo.
[Hide Photo] One of my first leads my first year in the Woo.
My husband, Mark, leading some of the easier parts of Fantasia.  What an awesome climb!  Worth spending all that money on the big cams.
[Hide Photo] My husband, Mark, leading some of the easier parts of Fantasia. What an awesome climb! Worth spending all that money on the big cams.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Totally agree on the #7!!!!! This is another one of those famous routes credited to my earlier stage of learning to climb. I watched my friend Kevin suffer and bleed on this with nothing bigger as far as cams than a #3.5 camalot and no big bros. I think we had a set of curved hexes. But once you're in the crack your in. there's no escape..... Dec 11, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] In July of 2002 (7/5/02) this crack was pretty full of birdy doo. I wanted to climb it, but after having a good look, decided that it was not important to me. Jul 7, 2002
Petro
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Sweet offwidth. I'd recomend two #5 camalots unless you can get a #4.5 in at the beginning. Sep 2, 2003
[Hide Comment] THRUTCH FEST. Eat your Wheaties before getting on this beast ;-) Sep 2, 2003
L. Hamilton
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] It's pretty and it's pure, with views out over the range. This was my favorite route at Vedauwoo back in passive tube-chock days. Jun 14, 2004
[Hide Comment] I think Mr. Bubb is thinking of Skull. This is a clean, crack with no bird doo.A classic moderate ow. Sep 22, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I did end up doing the route in 5/15/2004. The Anon poster is correct- it was clean of PooPoo at that time. I know wasn't thinking of Skull when I said that though, I think in 2002 there was poopoo. Skull is not on this section of rock & I checked it out independantly on another occasion. Skull was closed this summer by a handwritten "raptor" note at the base.In 2004, I found Fantasia was a decent route, strenuous, and unprotected down low without tubes/big-bros, due to it's very large size starting off. Pretty fun overall. Sep 22, 2004
Danny
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great route! The crux at the beginning does protect with small cams in the horizontal crack, just bring some runners. This gives you pro at your waist for pulling into the crack. Be sure not to blow your big gear too early like me or you'll be faced with a big runout. Oct 3, 2005
EMT
[Hide Comment] Great route. I got to follow Trever on this last weekend and thought it was one of the best offwidths I'd climbed. 4 #5s and a #4 seemed to be right for the gear. May 16, 2008
taimi
Longmont, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] When we went up it (5/30/08), there was a fair amount of dried blood on the rock, testifying to the Total Thrutchfest nature of the route. As so often the case at Vedauwoo, getting into the blasted crack was the crux for me--but I'm short, and that can make a difference. Once in the crack, it's a great offwidth, truly a lot of fun. I didn't lead it, so can't testify to gear.... Jun 1, 2008
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Just wanted to thank whoever left a BD #6 on this route a couple of years ago, I have enjoyed it immensely! Jan 20, 2009
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Probably one of the best fatties I have done at Vedauwoo! Just enough thin crimps in the crack and edging feet on the outside to make it a solid 5.9. A small piece protects the very beginning, after which you can throw in a #6 C4 to protect the initial thrash. I wish I had another #6 about halfway up...besides that, a #5, a bunch of #4's and even a #3 C4 came in handy. Jul 5, 2011
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
[Hide Comment] VERY fun climb! Sent this fat baby in the middle of a thunderstorm - the rain didn't affect the climb whatsoever. Classic 5.9 offwidth testpiece. Jul 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] The first ascent was by John Garson and Jeb Schenck in November of '70, I think (I'm getting so I can't recall). It was originally rated as Voo's 1st 5.10--then downrated to 9. It was very strenuous, and we had only two pieces of pro, tubes I believe. Apr 19, 2017