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That Flakes It

V3-4, Boulder,  Avg: 2.6 from 150 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Dark Side > That Flakes It Overhang

Description

This is not actually located on Nook's Rock but on one right beside it. You can climb the arete from the left to the top for a V1 problem, or start from a sit down and climb straight up with a long throw on really chalked holds just below the lip and then top out V4. Either way a nice warm up set, as most of the problems at Nook's Rock.

Protection

Perhaps want to use a crash pad - not necessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Get some!!!" A local going for it on a fun problem on the Dark Side.
[Hide Photo] "Get some!!!" A local going for it on a fun problem on the Dark Side.
Left: Sasha Oncley on first move - left arm at 10 degree angle ish, right leg bent on starting foot, hips at ~4 ft. Right: me with left arm at 120 degrees, right leg almost straight, hips at ~5.5 ft.
[Hide Photo] Left: Sasha Oncley on first move - left arm at 10 degree angle ish, right leg bent on starting foot, hips at ~4 ft. Right: me with left arm at 120 degrees, right leg almost straight, hips at ~5.5 ft.
Left: Sasha Oncley with hands on the starting holds, right foot fully on the ground with left knee bent on pad. Right: me on my tippy toes on the pad, barely managing to get 1 hand in (gotta do a few moves on the right wall to get to starting holds).
[Hide Photo] Left: Sasha Oncley with hands on the starting holds, right foot fully on the ground with left knee bent on pad. Right: me on my tippy toes on the pad, barely managing to get 1 hand in (gotta do a f…
Wes doing a dyno variation.
[Hide Photo] Wes doing a dyno variation.
Lots of new chalk on the detached block to the right compared to older photos. I'm no priest but believe using that block is a sin.
[Hide Photo] Lots of new chalk on the detached block to the right compared to older photos. I'm no priest but believe using that block is a sin.
Not much to heel but just enough.
[Hide Photo] Not much to heel but just enough.
The start.
[Hide Photo] The start.
Ben C. on the V4 overhang.
[Hide Photo] Ben C. on the V4 overhang.
On the V1 arete of That Flakes It.
[Hide Photo] On the V1 arete of That Flakes It.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The rock leaves me unsure of how to sit this problem. Is the right wall on for the feet or no? Oct 20, 2004
misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
[Hide Comment] The right slab is on for the 5.6 variation. Dec 12, 2009
misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
[Hide Comment] That Flakes It is a V1. Dec 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] This seems like it's not posted properly. There are two distinct problems on this boulder and they should be listed as individual routes: That Flakes It (V1) and That Flakes it Overhang (V4). It's a bit misleading to have two completely different problems posted together as a V-question. Dec 16, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] flagstaffmountainbouldering…

THAT FLAKES IT OVERHANG
1. That Flakes It V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds around on the far left, hand traverse up and right up large holds to the corner, then pull over.
2. That Flakes It Direct V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Start on good holds under the overhang. Keep your feet off the right wall as you do powerful moves out the overhanging face. A sds looks possible.
3. That Flakes It Super Direct V? sds ... FA: Dan Smith and Dan Howley, late 1990's
A sit start to #2 that begins on a thin LH hold and microcrimp for the RH. Move up and slightly right into the start for #2. Dec 16, 2009
Sasha Oncley
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] Love this one. Really fun to work on to dial down optimal beta! Beta video!: youtube.com/shorts/egs7Xk_g…. Mar 25, 2022
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] The grade is definitely down a notch or two since the left starting hold became a jug. Disappointing but not surprising to see this happen, though somehow the problem survived 20+ years without breaking. Apr 4, 2022
Tania Harsono
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] Does anyone short have beta to share on where to put left foot and then left hand after getting the first big right throw? I'm 5'1", and it takes me 3 extra hand/foot moves on the right wall just to get up to the starting holds... existing beta videos by tall dudes are not helpful! (2 pics posted for context... borrowed screenshots from Sasha Oncley's clip on youtube :D). Jun 23, 2022
[Hide Comment] Showed up yesterday, and the starting jug was sitting beside the boulder. That makes it a tad harder, maybe now it's a little closer to a Flagstaff V4; however, I am claiming the new FA and am renaming this to "That Johns It". I would wish for everybody to respect this. Nov 3, 2022
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] There's no need to replace the broken hold, and in its current state, the problem is closer to V2 given the size of the starting hold even with the most recent break. Gluing/artificial holds/chipping anywhere on Flagstaff is against OSMP regulations and given the friable nature of the rock, doomed to failure. If something breaks, it breaks, though staying away after a lot of snow or rain is a great idea. Nov 3, 2022
Elle Delesky
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Bbeta for how I've always done the climb: youtube.com/shorts/lxF52wlL…. May 30, 2023
Michael Spiesbach
Boulder, CO
  V2
[Hide Comment] If you use a left heel hook, this has to be closer to V2 or maaaaybe V3? Fun problem either way. If you use the wall on the right at all, I'd say maybe V1 /V2. Jun 26, 2023
Evan McCormick
Clinton, NY
  V3
[Hide Comment] The V1 uses the wall to the right but stays left of the large crack in the wall. The overhang can be stand-started on the chest high holds while keeping your feet on the overhanging face, or sit started with a foot on the wall to the right (just be sure to only use only the overhang for your feet once you get to the stand-start). The overhang goes at about V3. Aug 13, 2023
Shay Subramanian
Denver, CO
  V2+
[Hide Comment] Fun warm-up, but I am not seeing V4! Consideration feels well...considerably harder than this. Not sure if I used some forbidden holds, but it felt like V2+ maybe. Apr 4, 2024
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  V2-3