Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Glenn Schuler & Kevin McLaughlin, 9/88
Page Views: 4,515 total · 21/month
Shared By: Rog on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is a fun climb & a great reason to haul some gear in. I find the exact location a bit hard to explain.... This is about 1/2 way to Captain America and on the right (like most routes). A short vertical crack that quickly mellows in angle and soon becomes a ledge that slopes up and to the right.

From this ledge, there is a great bolted line that climbs huecos up the steep wall. We were immediately attracted to the bolted line & then followed it down to the trad crack start. The .10d is (I'd guess) the bolted portion, but the crack down low earns some respect as well.

Protection

4 bolts for the upper portion, small / medium gear for the bottom crack.

Photos

Chris R  
Fun combination of sport and trad. The only downfall is that the line is so short. The crack can be adequately protected with a pink tri-cam and a #10 stopper. Hueco'ed headwall is enjoyable pocket-pulling. Sep 19, 2002
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Warning: If you're accustomed to climbing "5.10" at Cactus Cliff (Shelf Road), this route is burly. The crack start is solid trad 5.10 and the overhanging headwall is solid Penitente 5.10.

This is a classic for the area, in contention for "best 5.10" despite the big ledge. The crack makes it feel much longer than it is. May 16, 2005
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
I looked at this route many times, because the upper portion's huecos looked so appealing but the lower crack looked hard. We finally got on it and I'm sorry I waited so long. The crack sucks up pro and offers some awesome hand jamming with good feet. A couple medium nuts, a #0.5 camalot and a #4 Camalot up high were more than enough. The upper section, with great huecos, is super fun. Mar 23, 2007
Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
 
Scott Rogers   Moab, UT
 
This is an awesome crack. I saw it at the beginning of my stay at Penitente, and finally decided to get on it. The initial crack was excellent. I felt the crux of the crack to be a solid 5.9 because of the good feet. The overhanging headwall was also excellent. Great route overall! May 19, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10b
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10b
Following the crack all the way to the top of the wall is a fun climb and really the "logical line" but while Im sure it was climbed long ago, I see no name for it anywhere. Possibly "Crack Slave"? Its a fun 5.9 requiring a range of gear and a variety of techniques. Probably best to set up a gear anchor and have the last climber move the anchor to Rocketman and lower from there. Sep 21, 2008
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10c
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10c
FA Glenn Schuler & Kevin Mclaughlin. This was the first Penitente route I put up with Kevin the day he showed me the place. I had spent many hours the weeks prior hand drilling and cutting my super sweet, janky, red, homeboy hangers in anticipation of my trip. I was just a punk kid & didn't know any better, good times! Apr 17, 2014