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Routes in Cave Wall

Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Bad and Dirty, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gun Control S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Snowdens Intro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 159 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Oct 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

From the southern (left) end of the cave wall, ascend the lower tier by a nice hand crack in a left-facing dihedral. This is one of the nicer cracks I've done at Castlewood. If this were a climb by itself it would be three stars. However, the upper part is not as aesthetic, but I still give it two-stars. At the ledge, ease onto a slabby ramp that begins the second half of the climb. Up above climb up a right-facing dihedral. A few jams lead to a wider part in the crack where you must reach into, get your feet and jam the protruding fist crack. One last chimney/ twin crack move gets you to the top.

Protection

Standard rack with medium to large cams, and passive pro such as nuts and hexes. The top anchor can be made from gear or using trees on top (35' away).

Photos

Marc Stuive
Parker, Co
 
Marc Stuive   Parker, Co
 
Climbed this on top rope. A definite must to return for a lead. Nice layback opportunity at the bottom. Plan to minimize pro on the bottom and blast through the layback to the ledge. Mar 21, 2010
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Fun easy climbing and a bit longer than most castlewood routes. I lead the whole thing with only stoppers but some bigger pro would be okay too. Setting up the anchor on top is a bit of a pain. I just belayed my second from on top. Definately worth doing especially for beginning leaders like myself. Mar 12, 2003