Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: n/a
Page Views: 4,226 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ben F on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

39 Opinions

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This little gem is located at the Leftovers Area on its south face. This route starts on some easy terrain leading to a gorgeous splitter that can't be missed. Ascend the easy section (a crack system that ends below and to the right of the spitter) and step into this beauty from the right. The first 30 or so feet is fingery and contains the crux. The crack gets a bit easier and veres slightly to the left. The crack ends and there are 2 ways to finish this pitch. Either vere up and left through more featured and protectable climbing to a big alcove and belay, or continue more or less straight upward (5.9 R) and belay as soon as you can. We had 3 people in our party and opted for the first option. In either case, you'll do well to have a 60m rope. Continue with about 30 feet of easy climbing (moving up and right from the alcove) and set a belay.


Bring a full set of stoppers, and a light rack of cams. Bring up to a #3 Camalot/3.5 Friend (for the belay if you do it the way I did). The descent is a walk-off the back to either side.


It amazes me that Hubbel's book doesn't give this route a star. I decided to go check it out when I noticed that his guide has only two climbing photos in the entire Turkey Rocks/Sheep's Nose area, and they are BOTH of this climb. Not worth a star, huh? Apr 22, 2003
Matt Juth
Matt Juth   Evergreen
There are occasionally slings at the top of Captain Fist. I've seen them twice in the past five years. If they are there; 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground or 2 50m will get you to a ledge below too much turkey. Don't count on them!The traverse at the top is a little scary! Oct 13, 2003
Dan Battin
Dan Battin  
Pretty thin at the begining of the crack. bring your small stuff. The traverse is not as scarry as the begining. Great climb in my opinion. Nov 18, 2003
We set a belay at 100' when the crack ran out. The second "pitch" is the traverse into the alcove; a red hex will help on the anchor here. The third pitch then is all the way to the top, walking off right.

Making the traverse the second pitch allowed me to see my second on what I thought was a lightly protected, airy traverse. It also eliminates any possibility of rope drag on both the first and third pitches.

Terrific route. May 31, 2004
"2nd pitch" traverse: truly a dangerous, dumb idea. Your one piece pulls on the traverse, and now you are falling on anchors, 100 feet up, with very little rope out. Huge forces.

Better idea: run the first pitch past the crack, do the traverse, and if you do lose it on the traverse, you've got 100' of rope out and lots of gear backing you up.

It's good to have friends tell you when you do something stupid. Still learning. Jun 2, 2004
Matt Juth
Matt Juth   Evergreen
I remember Diagonaling up and left until I found a funky but bomber TCU placement near some big edges. That piece proteced me very well for the traverse moves, but it was still hairy for the follower after removing it. Seemed like 5.8ish with maybe a move of 9 right around that cam. Jun 3, 2004
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Trevor   Cottonwood Heights, UT
...the R ratings in the guidebooks may be accurate - no way an X - the face climbing (if you choose the "straight up" finish - which is easier than it looks from below by the way) is significantly easier than the rest of the crack below...5.8 at most...I found pro up and left after the crack ends, then trend slightly right to the top...runout is a max of 20 feet the way I did it...and the hairy moves are only about 10-12 feet above your last bomber piece...rad climb, best done with 60m cord in one perfect pitch - don't forget to have your belayer tie in as they may have to simul-climb a few feet depending on your specific cord...among the BEST climbs at Turkey. **** May 21, 2007
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
Easily done as one pitch with a 70m rope. Great climb! Mar 4, 2009
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
If Walt bailey Memorial on Devil's Tower is 5.9, then Too Much Crack is 5.9.... Aug 31, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Yep - this goes as 1 pitch with a 70m, or for that matter, with a 60m with 20' of 5.4 simul-climbing to a ledge from the base.
As for the top, if you step slightly left after the crack runs out, you can get a good stopper and Alien, then back right, the climbing is no harder than 5.8 (if that) and only for a move or two if done by the easiest sequence, then it comes back up and right on positive, if not incut holds for both hands and feet to the top. PG-13, I think. Maybe R on 5.6 climbing, but not on anything you'd fall on if you just lead the rest of this route.... Oct 30, 2016
Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
Unbelievably fun crack. The rap route is pretty lame though. Somebody should definitely put in a real rap anchor. Oct 9, 2017
Ron Pivo
Ron Pivo   Westcreek
There is no rap route...you walk off. Oct 9, 2017