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Sport, 80 ft,
Avg: 1.7 from 39
FA: Bob Horan and Mark Kalin, June 1997
> Upper Dream Canyon
> Lost Angel
This is a reasonably nice 10a midway up Lost Angel wall. Start halfway up the trail as for Dyno Arete. Crux move is probably 10a, dihedral a 9-9+ish and the remainder pretty easy.
The climb starts by stepping over a few small bushes, pulling up on some easy stuff, and then stepping up onto a nice little point. Then you sidepull and make your first clip about 15 ft. above the ground to the left. Don't go too far right (the holds disappear). Now for the one move wonder crux move. Slap around left until you get reasonably solid (no good feet here). Move a little left, slap again and you'll get a good hold. Then move on up. Next clip is above and to the right. Proceed up the dihedral generally bearing right. If a clip looks to be far left, it is (that's Dyno Arete). All the clips for this are to the right. Work up the dihedral for about 3 clips and then make a beeline right. 4-5 more clips along a gradually ascending right-hand traverse. Tops out to two hangers above a 12. You can rap back down/lower here. It's hard to clean the route since it makes almost a 90-degree turn from the dihedral.
You can continue with Escape from Freedom (works up a large flake with a single bolt -- 5.5/5.6 easy climb) and then across a traverse with no pro (you can slap a #1 Camalot in above the traverse). Then work your way up to the slab after the traverse (nasty nasty when wet). A small Alien might fit in the crack here. I got one or two in. Then just walk up the ramp for very easy 5.5-5.6 trad climbing. Pro off to the left. Finish for this is above Zentropa I think. You can also make a left-hand turn up to another set of hangers (#2 protects this well) and then lead a nifty sport 5.10c up to your right. Or you can climb the gully to the left for super simple 5.0 style trad and top out.
You'll need at least 10 quickdraws for Freedom
Escape from Freedom: Trad variation after Freedom. #3 Camalot for the ramp, small Aliens after the traverse, #1 Camalot before the traverse.