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5.9+, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 1.7 from 39 votes
FA: Bob Horan and Mark Kalin, June 1997
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel


This is a reasonably nice 10a midway up Lost Angel wall. Start halfway up the trail as for Dyno Arete. Crux move is probably 10a, dihedral a 9-9+ish and the remainder pretty easy.

The climb starts by stepping over a few small bushes, pulling up on some easy stuff, and then stepping up onto a nice little point. Then you sidepull and make your first clip about 15 ft. above the ground to the left. Don't go too far right (the holds disappear). Now for the one move wonder crux move. Slap around left until you get reasonably solid (no good feet here). Move a little left, slap again and you'll get a good hold. Then move on up. Next clip is above and to the right. Proceed up the dihedral generally bearing right. If a clip looks to be far left, it is (that's Dyno Arete). All the clips for this are to the right. Work up the dihedral for about 3 clips and then make a beeline right. 4-5 more clips along a gradually ascending right-hand traverse. Tops out to two hangers above a 12. You can rap back down/lower here. It's hard to clean the route since it makes almost a 90-degree turn from the dihedral.

You can continue with Escape from Freedom (works up a large flake with a single bolt -- 5.5/5.6 easy climb) and then across a traverse with no pro (you can slap a #1 Camalot in above the traverse). Then work your way up to the slab after the traverse (nasty nasty when wet). A small Alien might fit in the crack here. I got one or two in. Then just walk up the ramp for very easy 5.5-5.6 trad climbing. Pro off to the left. Finish for this is above Zentropa I think. You can also make a left-hand turn up to another set of hangers (#2 protects this well) and then lead a nifty sport 5.10c up to your right. Or you can climb the gully to the left for super simple 5.0 style trad and top out.


You'll need at least 10 quickdraws for Freedom

Escape from Freedom: Trad variation after Freedom. #3 Camalot for the ramp, small Aliens after the traverse, #1 Camalot before the traverse.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nick at the anchors?  This route was confusing, dog leg right?  Stupid climb
[Hide Photo] Nick at the anchors? This route was confusing, dog leg right? Stupid climb
Past the crux and about to turn the corner.
[Hide Photo] Past the crux and about to turn the corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The crux moves seem more like 5.9 than 5.10a. Most people I climb with feel it's the easiest 10a in Boulder County. Aug 6, 2002
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
[Hide Comment] I agree, Freedom is likely the easiest 10 around Boulder, in addition to being one of the most blatantly bolted cracks in the area. Apr 22, 2003
[Hide Comment] Are you guys being a little harsh - if you're calling the top crack area 9ish, then the below move is tougher, don't you think? Jun 16, 2003
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] does anyone know what the route name and grade is of the route that takes off directly above the anchors after the first pitch of freedom?(at the end of the ramp) Aug 11, 2004
[Hide Comment] Route is pretty forgettable. The first few moves up the dihedral are ok, but then it seems the route ends and the route setter just added bolts to the nearest easy anchor. Apr 23, 2006
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
[Hide Comment] There's a fun trad 5.9+/5.10a variation for the 2nd half of this climb. After the 3rd or 4th bolt, head straight up the thin crack to the anchor with webbing. There's a nice finger lock as you move to the left of the 4th bolt. It's a balancy stretch to get there. Bring a few small to medium cams. This variation eliminates the really easy traverse to the right and facilitates cleaning the route. Jul 5, 2006