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Prarie Dog

5.10c/d, Sport,  Avg: 2 from 34 votes
FA: Tom Hanson, 1996
Colorado > Denver South > Castlewood Cany… > Wendell Spire
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Description

The third buttress left of Wendell Spire holds routes on both the left and right corners. Prarie Dog runs up the left corner.

Reach for some big-ish jugs on slightly crumbling rock to get established under a small roof/bulge. Pulling the roof/bulge is the crux (has a bolt just out of sight over the bulge!), and it is considerably more powerful than one may anticipate. Throwing for the jug over the roof/bulge works well but feels a bit committing. It goes statically if you pull down the lock-off. Saunter up to the anchor by staying on the arete.

This route is a worthy addition to the Wendell Spire sector and provides a good, pumpy warm up for some of the adjacent tweakers.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The feet at the crux seem insecure when throwing for the lip, but the left hand and foot can really crank off those holds. A deadpoint seems committing, but go for the onsight--it's well-protected. Nov 18, 2001
Darrin Stein
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] Of course the ratings are subjective, but this one is on my top five out at Castlewood. Below the crux: A left foot high in the hueco, right foot underneath on a knob - Left hand to the right of the left foot......grunt and shoot the big knob. Another Tom Hanson classic. Dec 7, 2001
ROC
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun route, too bad its so short. The crux is over before you know it then its just a few more feet of easy moves to the end. Definately easier than it looks. Mar 6, 2003
Max Houck
Arvada, CO
[Hide Comment] Didn't love the bolting on this. The crux bolt is an expansion bolt that spins, and the way a carabiner hangs on it, you are going to be levering over either the spine or the gate anytime you weight or fall on it. Both anchor bolts are old rusty spinners as well with no chains, just eye-bolt style hangers. Feb 7, 2021