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Energy Before Ecstasy

5.10a/b, Sport,  Avg: 1.5 from 47 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Bank > 05. Thunder Tactics

Description

This route is located on the north side of the Bank right of Hostile Crank Over.

Face climb past (2 bolts) to a large roof. Pull the roof (2 bolts) and finish off the climb on face (3 bolts). Anchors are high to the right.

Protection

7 bolts. Bring one long draw for under the roof to save you from rope drag. I used a Metolius TCU as supplement pro after the roof to the right.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The view from below of Energy Before Ecstasy.
[Hide Photo] The view from below of Energy Before Ecstasy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
[Hide Comment] 2 stars - I don't think so.. This route is pretty much a pile, especially once you have cleared the roof, rock wuality goes downhill very fast. Sure the roof is fun, but really this route is not worth doing IMHO. Don't bother to hike to try to find this one. 1 star would be pushing it. Apr 12, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
[Hide Comment] The route shown in the pictures is actually "Warren's in the House - 10b' not 'Energy... - 10c' but the last comment remains the same for both of these routes. Apr 12, 2002
Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
[Hide Comment] If you're talking about the photo by W. Prehm underneath, it is definitely Energy Before Ecstasy ! A great route if you turn the roof straight up the middle; but once you get over, expect some bad run-outs! Really poor bolting above the roof. Apr 12, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
[Hide Comment] Regarding the bad bolting job ? I am not sure what you would expect ? The bolts do not define 'bad-runouts' by far. The route is also defined in the guide book (Knapp guide) by the name 'Warren's in the House' and rated 10b, as the route which climbs the roof to the left is Energy rated 10c. ????? Apr 13, 2002
Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
[Hide Comment] I'll have to check my Knapp guide to see if he has the routes wrong but the route to the left that you are refering to is Hostile Crankover (11c), the route in the picture is "Energy..." and the actual route "Warrens in the Bank" is several yards to the right and is a very hard to spot slab -arete affair. Apr 13, 2002
Fred Knapp
[Hide Comment] I was wrong. War in the bank is the funky slender west-facing prow right of this route. This is Energy. Nov 9, 2004
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I don't care what you all think, this is a fun moderate roof with a little weird traversing back and forth above. I liked it. The route to the left is not 11c, that's around the corner on the obvious blade of rock. May 25, 2008
Tzilla Rapdrilla
[Hide Comment] The climbing is OK, but the bolting somewhat lacking, perhaps because they were trying to force the line too much. The runout above the second roof is bad not only due to lack of pro but because the rope tends to catch under the roof. An added bolt would fix that. There's also a loose block near the top that needs to go too. Jan 22, 2014
PPCA Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance
[Hide Comment] All bolts replaced with stainless glue-ins. If you appreciate hardware updates like this, please consider a donation to the Pike's Peak Climbers Alliance, Boulder Climbing Community, or American Safe Climbing Association at the links below:

pikespeakclimbersalliance.org/.
boulderclimbers.org/.
safeclimbing.org/. Mar 31, 2026