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Routes in Project X Wall

Lothar S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuclear Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project X S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Radiation Control Area S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rest in Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skunk Budtress S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stemasaurus S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Anderson, Hanson, Ziggy, 1/1990
Page Views: 555 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Project X runs up the middle of this wall just right of the grey streak. Climbing up to the final roof is reasonable 5.11 climbing on thin cobbles and a few thin edges. The roof, at one point, contained a small, crimper cobble that has been pulled off. My recent attempt here ended in frustration. On top rope, it was possible to contrive a ridiculously long reach from an almost horizontal body position, to pick up a thin blackish inclusion, and still follow the existing line. Not really workable on an honest lead (for me anyway). In putzing around below the roof, it seemed as though one could redirect the route to the left making a logical, traversing finish. It may be worth relocating the anchor for this purpose (??).

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

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Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Something in between the 5th and 6th bolt must have broken off. There's no way this is a 12a/b. I've climbed 5.13 and can boulder V9/10, and I do not see how pulling past the slopey pocket is possible. Jun 24, 2011
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Yeah, this thing is ridiculous. I was workin' it for the first time today and got the clip right after the roof, but after hitting the slopy pocket I'm stuck! But overall, it's a fun route. May 20, 2010
FA - January, 1990. Jul 18, 2008
Chris Cavallaro
  5.12b
Chris Cavallaro  
  5.12b
Great route! The rest before the crux definitely makes the redpoint easier, but this is still a tough route. I move right under the roof and go to the slopey pocket to pull over the roof. Fun stuff! Oct 5, 2005
bb
  5.11d
bb  
  5.11d
Is this really suppose to be 5.12 climbing? The cobble that was pulled out left a sick dish which was a blast if you got it like a side/pull gaston, but the crux was not sustained at all.... I feel a 5.12 climb should have more than 1 or 2 tough moves. In Rock Climbing Colorado though, it says it goes at 5.12b (was that before the cobble gave?). If so, has anyone climbed this route without that existing cobble? Anyone? Feel free to disagree. Jan 23, 2004