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Night

5.11 X, Trad,  Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
FA: FA: Layton Kor FFA: Jeff Achey
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a superlative pitch just left of the much safer Back in Black on the Blackwalk Wall around the east side of Redgarden. Jeff Achey's ground-up lead on the first ascent took a whopping four hours -- a fine display of mental control and patience that surely ranks as one of the great leads in Eldo history.

Climb the chossy ramp as for Back in Black, moving up and left an additional 8-10 feet from where you would clip the first bolt on Back in Black. Place imaginary pro and make a very commiting move right onto the bulging, brown face. Climb past underclings, sidepulls, and funky holes to a stance at a left-trending crack. Load this crack up with gear and move up and right into the crux bulge, aiming for the left-diagonalling pocket band in the smooth, black headwall. Follow this to the anchors.

Protection

You won't need much. Small wires and a #1 Camalot get you up the ramp, then small TCU's and double 1-1/2" cams take you through the crux. A final #1 Camalot in a hole gets you to the route's lone bolt, just before the double-bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Maybe more like this?"  Josh Janes twisted in crux of 'Night (5.11)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb in 2004.
[Hide Photo] "Maybe more like this?" Josh Janes twisted in crux of 'Night (5.11)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb in 2004.
Josh Janes arrives at the crux of 'Night (5.11)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb in 2004.
[Hide Photo] Josh Janes arrives at the crux of 'Night (5.11)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb in 2004.
Josh Janes approaches the steep section on 'Night (5.11)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb in 2004.
[Hide Photo] Josh Janes approaches the steep section on 'Night (5.11)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb in 2004.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Crux-O-Rama. The lower 1/2 is not to hard and you could get a few pieces in and probably be OK if climbing 5.11 anyway. The crux comes pulling into Matt's 1.5", left-leaning crack. I'd take 3 cams, 1.5"-2" and load them up with 2' slings to get a rope over the edge to lead this. The crux comes up next.... Exiting the crux is balancy, hard, and pumpy- then you get the #1 Camalot (or a 2-2.5" cam) a few meters before the bolt. It was hard to get to the bolt, but then the difficulty dropped off a little to reach the top (5.10?).

You probably need a 70m or two ropes to TR the route off of the anchors- the 70m hangs just above the ground from the anchors. Jun 5, 2004
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11c X
[Hide Comment] One of the best in Eldo! Oct 31, 2016