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Avg: 3.7 from 6
FA: FA: Layton Kor FFA: Jeff Achey
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - S Buttress
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is a superlative pitch just left of the much safer Back in Black on the Blackwalk Wall around the east side of Redgarden. Jeff Achey's ground-up lead on the first ascent took a whopping four hours -- a fine display of mental control and patience that surely ranks as one of the great leads in Eldo history.
Climb the chossy ramp as for Back in Black, moving up and left an additional 8-10 feet from where you would clip the first bolt on Back in Black. Place imaginary pro and make a very commiting move right onto the bulging, brown face. Climb past underclings, sidepulls, and funky holes to a stance at a left-trending crack. Load this crack up with gear and move up and right into the crux bulge, aiming for the left-diagonalling pocket band in the smooth, black headwall. Follow this to the anchors.
You won't need much. Small wires and a #1 Camalot get you up the ramp, then small TCU's and double 1-1/2" cams take you through the crux. A final #1 Camalot in a hole gets you to the route's lone bolt, just before the double-bolt anchors.