Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,595 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Mar 31, 2001 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Every climbing area needs a high-quality handcrack, but not every area is so blessed. This Golden Cliffs classic is hidden away at the far left end of the cliff, but it is worth the hike with a rack of gear. Located on the right wall of the large dihedral of "Chimney Route", it splits the wall all the way to the rim at plus or minus hand size. For convenience, and to minimize the erosive impacts of walking off the top of the cliff, a two bolt anchor with rings was installed in 2001. The anchor is accessible from the top, so there's no excuse not to toprope it even if you left the cams in the car.

Protection

Medium to large cams (#3.5 Camalot) to a two bolt anchor with rings.  The anchor bolts are widely-spaced, so don't expect quickdraws to work well.

Photos

Well, I guess for this crag this is a three star route, although I've climbed a couple better cracks here. Good way to avoid the crowds though. It's actually kinda wide at the top. A 3.5 woulda worked, I only had a #3, and it was weak...try the 5.8 called Bush Loves Detroit for a more fun climb.... Jan 13, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
A nice pitch, but not three stars. Bush Loves Detroit and Big Dihedral are better. It''s too easy to avoid jamming the crack by moving out to the left.

A good route, but not three stars. Sep 3, 2003
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Too short and broken up for multiple stars. Dec 31, 2004
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
My favorite hand crack at Table. Oct 31, 2011
Decent little feature on which to teach somebody the basics...clean, sustained, if a bit steep for the first-time crack climber. Oct 13, 2013
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
Felt a bit harder than Star Wars (5.8) in Eldo and significantly harder than other routes graded similarly in the Risk Area. Oct 13, 2015
Phil Pullshard
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.7+
Phil Pullshard   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.7+
Totally rad climb, more sustained jamming than Bush Loves Detroit and large feet make it a little more like 5.7+. Apr 23, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8-
If you have the right sized hands, it is barely 5.8, though lots of fun! May 16, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
Really fun hand crack!

To sew it up, bring cams from 0.5 to #4, with doubles of #1 & #2. Nov 27, 2018