[Hide Comment] I did something similar thinking I was on Slimy Spoon, regardless I don't think it deserves a star. Either hike/scramble up the lower ramp or if you're feeling frisky lead Super Arete. Oct 2, 2001

[Hide Comment] I think this route deserves at least one star, there are some loose rocks but they can be pretty easily avoided, and the last pitch is clean with fun moves. Nov 19, 2001

[Hide Comment] I did Slimy Spoon last spring. I also did Vertical Smile, or so I think I did. In the end, I followed two lines more or less where the topo on P.203 of Rossiter's old Boulder Climbs South book showed them. Neither really seemed to match the description, and we spent some time trying to figure out if we'd done the right lines. Neither was classic, but both were fun & easy & seemed reasonably safe at the time. I'd have given either one of them a *, but neither one two *'s.

Anyway, there are a few lines up in the area worthy of the bother if you are in the area, but neither is a destination. Nov 19, 2001

[Hide Comment] This is a much more enjoyable way of getting to the lower ramp than the 4th class scramble. Good warm up for Rosy, Ruper, Grand G, or Super Slab. Feb 2, 2002

[Hide Comment] CAUTION!!! The loose block on pitch2 defies gravity at the moment! Make sure your belayer has a helmet and pray that the block smashes into lots of small pieces should it release while your on route. Also, without that block getting up onto the face moves which lead right is pretty stout for 5.8. Jun 12, 2002

[Hide Comment] After climbing this route yesterday, it is readily apparent why this one doesn't make anyone's top ten list. There was much rotten rock, some very suspect flakes, and a few moments of shear terror as rock groaned and creaked - rock isn't supposed to make those sounds and not while I'm lying back on it! For a true Eldo experience, however, after climbing Chianti Wednesday, it was a great contrast on the quality and character of Eldorado, and one of the reasons I love Eldo so much. Trad climbing truly is an adventure. Sometimes a dangerous adventure, but that's part of the appeal isn't it?

I think with a little knowledge of the rock to avoid this climb can be safe and enjoyable, so I'll try and do my best to share some of my experience so you can avoid the most dangerous rock. Interestingly, the protection was fabulous on this climb, but the rock you climbed was horrible - how's that for contradictions??

The start is exactly as Mike describes it, up a short one move wonder dihedral that is fun, and then the work starts. Once on a left leaning ramp, traverse left along the top of quality rock, with a terrible rotten band above. You will need to cross this rotten band, so be creative with your pro in this bad rock as you go left. I found an awesome #3 in good rock that I was able to run a double length runner to protect this traverse. The rock is rotten, but the worst is obvious and easy to avoid. Once opportunity presents itself, shoot straight up to the roof above, which will take great pro. This keeps pro above your head, making the leftward traverse under the roof very secure. Once at the apex of the roof, the worse part is over (for this pitch!), and you can follow the left or right dihedral above over clean rock to a ledge.

Belay well right or left of the slightly overhanging second pitch dihedral above, this is very important to avoid the danger zone of falling rock from the leader. Make no mistake; this is a VERY DANGEROUS belay, stay away from the base of that dihedral!

The second pitch could be stellar - maybe in 25 years when all the crap falls off. Here's the blow-by-blow: Stem up the slightly left leaning, overhanging dihedral (Fun!) with great pro. There is a hanging Pizza Box flake in the dihedral that looks suspect, but you can stem out to avoid this first obstacle. At the apex of the overhanging section appears the Glider Wing Flake - a thin flat flake that temps as it is right in the face at the top of the dihedral. Work cautiously around and start back right up the finger crack above. Here is where I let my guard down, thinking the flakes I had just past were the flakes mentioned in the comments above.Oh no, not by a long shot. The crux of the route is in a clean finger crack working up the right dihedral. When it looks like you will need to lie back, really look at what you are grabbing onto - an upside down spearhead, the flake looks solid, but I called it the Death Spear Flake for a reason. I tested it, then went into a layback and the rock made the most unpleasant sound I've ever heard a rock make, I realized this flake was going to fall into my belly if it came off and land square on the head of my belayer below. Terror filled my heart. After Andrei jumped out of the way and I made a cautious, difficult stem out to the right, I was past the danger. I worked right and attacked the face straight up - the best part of the climb, but hard to enjoy.

Oddly, even though dangerous, I enjoyed this climb. Maybe because Eldo still has surprises, and you can still feel like an adventurer so close to the throngs! Aug 2, 2002

[Hide Comment] Did this route today and totally avoided the death flake at the crux by yarding on the nut I put into the finger crack. Without doing that and avoiding the flake this move would be much harder than 5.8. I did move out to the left just under the flake in question as there seemed to be a plethora of good holds there. All of those flakes were loose and scary. I frenched the nut and got outa there! I did like the route though. Oct 22, 2003

[Hide Comment] Too much loose junk to be good, despite a good looking last pitch. Not worthwhile unless you've climbed hundreds of other Eldo routes and are looking for something new. Apr 4, 2010

[Hide Comment] I personally think this is one of the most fun 5.8+ routes in Eldo. It must have cleaned up over the years, because I think it climbs quite cleanly. The ramping, diagonalling 1st pitch is nothing special, but the 2nd pitch is spectacular stemming up the steep, left-facing corner. Climb the steep finish to the left (5.9-) instead of taking the moderate rightward finish. Incredible position to the top of the Lower Ramp! Mar 17, 2014

[Hide Comment] The most dangerous part about the route is the rotten traverse. The rest of the route is OK.

We opted for the 5.9 finish (to the left at the end), which had good gear (yellow Metolius) and was a little dirty but fun. Dec 20, 2014

[Hide Comment] I've climbed this route a couple times now and really enjoy it. It's pretty clean too. The leftward 5.9- finish definitely adds some fun to P2. Nov 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] The third pitch is AWESOME. The rest of the route is not great, and by that I mean kinda a choss pile. I think taking the slab ramp to the third pitch is a blast, though. Nov 25, 2017

[Hide Comment] Levin's guidebook lists this as three pitches, but any sensible person will do it in two. Had a bit of an adventure when consulting the guidebook and seeing the second pitch labeled as "5.5" - I set up the dihedral in my approach shoes and carrying our pack! "If this pitch is 5.5, I'll eat my hat!" I yelled down at my belayer, before adding: "You should probably move in case I pull any of these boulders loose." The block I was holding had just let out a very unpleasant groan.

Leave it to Eldo to give you an adventure on your "easy" approach pitches.

This is by no means a classic or a must-do, but it's nice if you're looking to tag a little moderate mileage or a warm-up onto any route starting from the Lower Ramp. May 18, 2020

[Hide Comment] RE: anchor 1st pitch end / 2nd pitch start:

Original poster: "then again, continue along the ridge another 20 feet to a rappel station and belay".

I went up and down the ridge / ledge and didn't find bolts or webbing anchor! Based of the 2nd pitch picture start #3 of Janette.

Did see some rock horns that could have had webbing? Apr 1, 2024