Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

MacCavity

5.9+, Sport, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 239 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Catslab
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Open according to a Jeff CO ranger Details

Description

MacCavity is located on the far right side of the Catslab, 2nd route from the right side of the bottom section of the slab. This is an enjoyable long pitch (120 feet) with great climbing throughout. The line goes through the right side of a little roof. (Left side of roof is Gumby Cat.) Climb past 8 more bolts with perhaps a move of 9+/10 climbing. A splendid line, which will be enjoyed by all.

Protection

13 bolts - 2 bolt anchor. Approximately 125 feet from lower off. 2 ropes mandatory.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1. [[Skimbleshanks]]105749530, 8-.<br>
2. [[Old Deuteronomy]]105749185, 9.<br>
3. [[Mungajerry]]105752506, 9.<br>
4. [[Rumple Teaser]]105749188, 10-.<br>
5. [[Mr. Mistoffeles]], 9.<br>
6. [[Gumby Cat]]105748858, 4.<br>
7. [[Jellicle Cats]]105751141, 9.<br>
8. [[MacCavity]]105752512, 9.<br>
9. [[Grizabella]]105748861, 7.
[Hide Photo] 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-. 2. Old Deuteronomy, 9. 3. Mungajerry, 9. 4. Rumple Teaser, 10-. 5. Mr. Mistoffeles, 9. 6. Gumby Cat, 4. 7. Jellicle Cats, 9. 8. MacCavity, 9. 9. Grizabella, 7.
Tareyn eyeing the upcoming crux.
[Hide Photo] Tareyn eyeing the upcoming crux.
Close up of the (short-person) crux.
[Hide Photo] Close up of the (short-person) crux.
Some guy named John.  I said I'd send pix, but my phone didn't retain his email address.  Perhaps he'll stumble upon it one day....
[Hide Photo] Some guy named John. I said I'd send pix, but my phone didn't retain his email address. Perhaps he'll stumble upon it one day....
Grant Stockton starting up MacCavity.
[Hide Photo] Grant Stockton starting up MacCavity.
At the roof.
[Hide Photo] At the roof.
Irina Overeem high-stepping the roof.
[Hide Photo] Irina Overeem high-stepping the roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route can be led and seconded with a single rope by taking advantage of the 3rd class gully, just climbers right of the route. --Fun moves on the unusual, thin quartz veneer, high on the route. Mar 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] This is a good line and a perfect first 5.10 lead! The moves thru the right side of the small roof are easier than they appear from the ground. With a 60 meter rope it's no problem to rap to the big ledge twenty feet off the ground and scramble down the easy terrain. Jun 26, 2002
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Be mindful of loose rock hiding on this route. Mar 16, 2003
Dale D
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, the moves heading right around the "roof" is not the crux, but instead the slab up higher. Not as difficult as Jellicle Cats. I did not note any loose rock. Mar 29, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I really liked this route. Consistent nice movement all the way up, with a little variety getting around the bulge roof (maybe the crux, but not much harder than other parts). Felt like a pleasant 5.9 to me, and a really secure lead as long as you don't mind the runout to the first bolt. Aug 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] This route rocks. You do not need two ropes if you have a 70 m rope, though. The crux was not the roof for me, it was the last 25 ft on the mega slab. May 30, 2011
[Hide Comment] +1 that 2 ropes are not necessary as AC said. The obvious gully to the climber's right is an easy downclimb. Jul 8, 2011
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Good route, used a 70m rope and had about 10-15 feet left on the ground. The last 25 feet is tough going. Mar 15, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts on this route are suspect and in need of replacement. They are wiggling in their bolt holes. Be careful lowering. I'd be happy to assist in the replacement. Jul 7, 2012
Derek Lawrence
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Anchor replaced this evening. Due to funky rock in the original location, the new anchors are about 2 ft. lower. Big thanks to ASCA for the hardware! Aug 3, 2012
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Thank you for the anchor replacement! Nov 17, 2012
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] My 70m had the knots lying on the ground for the rap. I'd say it can be done with one rope! Oct 10, 2015
David Adams
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Totally agree that the crux is above the roof, and a 70m rope is perfect for this route. On Sunday July 29, 2018, I found one of the hangers above the roof is spinning on its bolt - be careful up there. Jul 30, 2018