Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,088 total · 38/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is a great climb on great rock. Although, it may at times be difficult to protect.

Follow the approach description that leads to the southern end of the East Face (from Royal Arch).

The climb starts in an alcove on the Southern-most end of the East face. Scramble up and right until you come across a left angling crack/strata.

Follow this toward the south edge of the East Face to a comfortable ledge. At this point the face steepens and you have to negotiate 15 feet of harder climbing (5.5) as you overcome the headwall. Note that exposure here is large and a fall could leave you dangling over the South face (assuming you are roped...).

Once over the headwall, things ease up. Head up and right passing just above the catscratches until you reach the northern ridge of the East Face near the summit.

This ridge is beautiful and is the perfect place for a picture if you cared to carry a camera all the way up here. The summit is a few feet further to the south.

Rappel, from an eyebolt, 75 overhanging feet to the North.


Standard Flatiron rack.


Mark Oveson
Louisville, Colorado
Mark Oveson   Louisville, Colorado
This is the easiest and best climb on the Fifth Flatiron. Most of the climb is quite easy, and there are a couple of harder cruxes. The rock is near perfect, and the rating is probably a little high. I'd call it F4, with perhaps two moves of F5 to get over a bulgy step. Jan 14, 2003
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
As of 7/3/2003 there is a BD microcam that some poor soul left nearly fixed at the first belay. I say "nearly" because it's possible to clean it if you don't mind standing about and working on it (which I DID mind, what with the temperature at 100F, the sun beating down, and my second beginning to curse audibly). Grade: if you follow the route described here, there is maybe only one (or at most two) 5.5 moves. The rest is 5.3-5.4. Pro: a bit scarce, but the climbing so easy that it probably doesn't matter. I did a variation of this route a year ago that stayed closer to the center of the face, and the opportunities for protection were much better -- every 10'-20' instead of every 30'-50'. Rope: a 60m rope is just right for the first two pitches; after that, it's more than enough. Gear: a few smaller cams, nuts, hexes. Could've used some larger cams for anchors (BD #3), but they're certainly not required. Jul 3, 2003
Mark Oveson
Louisville, Colorado
Mark Oveson   Louisville, Colorado
I climbed this wonderful route with Rick Accomazzo this morning. This is perhaps my fourth or fifth time on the route. I'd put it on my list of Top Ten Flatiron routes that I'm comfortable soloing.

We found the ropeless downclimb for the first time this morning. It is not obvious, but once located it is not very difficult. Anyone capable of soloing this route should be capable of doing this downclimb, once you know where you're headed.

From the summit, downclimb 80' to a prominent notch in the northeast ridge. Several feet south of the notch, find a hole that is just the right size and lower yourself through to a comfortable stance on a sloping shelf. A backpack will definitely not go through this hole unless it is removed from its wearer. A 200-pound person will go through. Don't ask me how I know this.

The sloping shelf is lichen-covered, but there are a few footholds that inspire confidence. At the far east (lower) end of the shelf, near a tiny tree, there are some reasonably good, positive handholds close to the edge. Use these holds to lower yourself down an overhanging wall to a ledge 10' off the ground. This is the only hard move and it is probably 5.4. Once on this ledge, scramble west to hiking territory.

Oh, and as a reminder--don't try to hike down between the Fourth and Fifth Flatirons! It's a jungle down there! Hike uphill, around the top of the Fifth, and down a good climber's path south of the Fifth Flatiron until you reach Royal Arch. Nov 1, 2005
Andy Leach
Denver, CO
Andy Leach   Denver, CO
I shot a short movie of our climb on 1/7/06: leachfam.com/securearea/1mo…. This is a very fun, mellow climb. I'll bet if you have a 70 meter rope you can do it in three pitches - I was tempted to try with our 60 meter rope. Jan 9, 2006
Rick Blair
  5.5 PG13
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.5 PG13
The first part of the description is correct 100%. I started on the far South side but instead of heading right to the "left leaning crack" I kept going left and never found the crack until I was above it at the belay. What I found was a 50 foot run out that I was not happy with, even on easy rock. Head in a rightward direction from the start!

Easy though long approach and descent, good rock, plenty of good belay station options, sustained 5.5 friction climbing with a fun finish and rappel, tough to protect at times. This would be a classic if it were closer to the trail head. Jun 7, 2009
  5.4 PG13
  5.4 PG13
This route was lots of fun and clearly not climbed very much. but I do think this should be rated PG-13 or R. Aug 1, 2016
Christopher Schneck  
  5.5 R
3 full pitches, worked perfectly with 60 m rope. Able to reach a very good belay stance on the first pitch, used the entire rope. Agree that starting to the right of the formal start allows for more protection, though protection is scant on the entire route. Long 2nd pitch also reaches a good stance, then you hit the crux at the start of pitch 3. Hugely fun climbing on great rock! Sep 17, 2017