Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,240 total · 40/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a great climb on great rock. Although, it may at times be difficult to protect.

Follow the approach description that leads to the southern end of the East Face (from Royal Arch).

The climb starts in an alcove on the Southern-most end of the East face. Scramble up and right until you come across a left angling crack/strata.

Follow this toward the south edge of the East Face to a comfortable ledge. At this point the face steepens and you have to negotiate 15 feet of harder climbing (5.5) as you overcome the headwall. Note that exposure here is large and a fall could leave you dangling over the South face (assuming you are roped...).

Once over the headwall, things ease up. Head up and right passing just above the catscratches until you reach the northern ridge of the East Face near the summit.

This ridge is beautiful and is the perfect place for a picture if you cared to carry a camera all the way up here. The summit is a few feet further to the south.

Rappel, from an eyebolt, 75 overhanging feet to the North.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Flatiron rack.