PRINT: Rock Climb PsychGillLogical, Eldorado Canyon State Park

PsychGillLogical

5.10b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 1.4 from 7 votes
FA: Pat Ament and Dale Goddard, 1984
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This route starts on the ground just left of the classic C'est La Vie on Redgarden Wall, directly between The Contest (a bolted tweeky 11+ on the left) and Redguard in the right, which at ground level is a loose 5.8, but goes upward to become a neat route, despite it's seriousness. PsychGillLogical is a series of thin cracks and face holds wandering up the slightly open book dihedral between the two more well known climbs.

Personally, I think that PsychGillLogical is overgraded at 5.10b in the Eldo books and should probably be 5.9 in my opinion, or even easier if one escapes to the right at the crux moves. Descend by rapping from the anchors as for The Contest .

The route is worth doing only for those of you who have 10 spare minutes in the area or are trying to do as many routes as possible. I don't regret doing it, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone with limited opportunity to climb in the area.

Protection

The route requires a mixed bag of pro, and to protect it well, s little skill. The line itself is a little bit brittle, but one can step a few feet right to Redgaurd to help protect it better and return to the line with gear to the side.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The climb is the crack to the right of the rope.