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Routes in W.C. Fields Pinnacle

A Very Ament's Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face/ WC Fields T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Ament, et al
Page Views: 1,853 total, 9/month
Shared By: George Bell on Sep 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a great, short route on the east face of the small pinnacle at the south end of the Third Flatiron. This route can likely be done in one pitch, but the zig-zagging would give nasty drag (unless using double ropes, or skip clipping the belay bolt). All bolts on this route are bomber 3/8", probably not the originals.

Begin at a tree on the north side of the east face which is north of a two foot overhang on the lower east face. P1: Climb this easy slab to where it steepens (pin), then move right over a steep overlap to a belay bolt near the north end of the face (100').

P2: Move back left, then up to a bolt. Above and to the left you can see another bolt about 15' higher (above an overlap). You can place a #3 Camalot in a slot to your left, but it is not much higher than the first bolt. The crux is the next few feet, moving up left of the bolt. Then grab some good handholds and continue straight up to the second bolt. Move up and right, place a red Alien (or equivalent) under an overlap, then lieback a flake up and right and run it out up an easy 20' slab to the razor-like summit ridge.

There is a 2 bolt rap anchor just on the other side of the edge. Tag the summit and then rap 75' west to the ground.

Protection

A few draws and longer slings. There are several trad placements, we placed a red alien and #2 and #3 Camalot, so bring 6 cams of various sizes to be safe.

Photos

neil chelton
Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
neil chelton   Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
Great climb. Seemed to be extremely runout in places with some rather gymnastic moves through the bulges. Dec 11, 2010
Cory Cleveland
Missoula, MT
  5.8-
Cory Cleveland   Missoula, MT
  5.8-
I thought this was a great route. Easy approach (except for vicious poison ivy protecting the base), ample protection and quality rock make it worth a go. The crux is short but sweet, and the summit is a great place to hang for a while. Definitely not your garden variety east face route. Jul 19, 2005
Fun outing in a great position. Can be studied right from the trail. Would have have given it no stars if those scary old bolts were still there...that day was DICEY Jun 12, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Beware poisin ivy after rapping from the top. When your rope pulls, it will land in a heap right in a small patch of poison ivy. Hard to avoid this. Oct 15, 2001
The original crufty bolts were recently (and legally) replaced.... Sep 25, 2001