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Trad, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.8 from 11
> Valley Massif
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
On the SE face of Valley Massif, locate an obvious crack system that is pretty much straight up the middle of the crag. Consult Harper, et al. for a great photo. Third class it up to a ledge with a great view of the area, directly below the route.
P1. Gain the bottom of a wide cleft below an overhanging hand to fist crack with a flake on its right. Work up the cleft, jam and layback the crack (some big gear) over its top to a great ledge and belay.
P2. Work straight up a crack through a bulge to where it widens a bit, and be happy you have pants on. Solve the dilema of which direction to face, then enjoy great jamming. The crack eases off near the top and gains another huge ledge with a distinct block on top.
P3a. As per the book, locate a leaning crack that lies between a flake and the large block at the top. This is short, sweet and hard 9.
P3b. Hollerith Exit is a hand/fist crack on the right side of the block described for the regular third pitch, 5.8.
From the summit, follow your nose off to the NE, boulder hop and walk off to the bottom. A small but distinct path can be found that will deliver you back at the east corner of the crag.
Range from small cams (yellow alien) to #6 Friend. #3 -#4 Camalots are handy, probably double up on the #3 at least. A #9 BD hex for the start of the P1 crux.