[Hide Comment] Vedauwoo Mega Classic - if only pitch two were twice as long! Pitch one is a soft man's version of Captian Nemo's 2nd pitch. Apr 18, 2005

[Hide Comment] Mega-classic is right! Maybe my favorite 10 at Vedauwoo. Apr 20, 2005

[Hide Comment] Horrendous. Greaseville. Squatville. Excellent pro. I'm sure the first few years of ascents were wonderful (even for lanky bastards like me) - but not no mo'! Taping is a MUST if you want any friction whatsoever - less you have small hands and tips. It's a classic alright. . . . Tape up. Jul 18, 2005

[Hide Comment] Primo. 10a-ish for those with thin hands, 10c-ish for those with meaties. Not nearly as greasy as Cameron would have you believe, but probably not the best route in 90 degree sun. Apr 27, 2006

[Hide Comment] The second pitch of this climb isn't greasy. You can avoid the awkward first pitch by traversing in from the right along a ledge, which is exposed and as a result you may want to rope up. I would recommend doing it this way unless you enjoy crunchy awkward moves that would be easier if you didn't have a head. I imagine Cameron's comments are mostly in regard to the first pitch. I can't imagine anyone not enjoying the second pitch for any other reason than length snobbery. It's absolutely spectacular and definitely one of the best 10's at Vedauwoo. May 13, 2006

[Hide Comment] My apologies. . . . It is true, the first pitch holds the contempt behind my bitch session. It looks really cool, but I just couldn't get in the groove and hated every bit of it (however, I am tall, and do have a head. . .). The second pitch is a fine finger to thin hand crack, although NOT the best in the 'Woo, and DOES require taping for good friction (yes, I did climb it in 90 degree heat) - at least for my abilities, which are nothing to many. Jul 17, 2006

[Hide Comment] Pitch one offers fun, thought-provoking climbing. Yes, it can easily be avoided, but why? The tall and lanky can have fun with it as well. Jul 18, 2006

[Hide Comment] "Pitch one offers fun, thought-provoking climbing. Yes, it can easily be avoided, but why? The tall and lanky can have fun with it as well."

Yeah, fun thought provoking climbing. Fun pontificating about the coefficient of friction between their fingers and the greasy poo smeared rock, thinking about how they would think if they didn't have a head. All the time wishing they had the legs of a gorilla so they could stand on those high smears without smashing their butt against the roof. Fun. It's worth doing once though. Reminds me of a quote about developing good judgment.

The 2nd pitch isn't THE best 10 at Vedauwoo, but ONE of them. Jul 18, 2006

[Hide Comment] "Yeah, fun thought provoking climbing. Fun pontificating about the coefficient of friction between their fingers and the greasy poo smeared rock, thinking about how they would think if they didn't have a head. All the time wishing they had the legs of a gorilla so they could stand on those high smears without smashing their butt against the roof. Fun. It's worth doing once though."

Jammer,
Reminds me of a quote about whining. I'm sorry you don't enjoy the first pitch of the route. I enjoyed being able to find a rest in the most unique of positions, back against the roof while feet on smears. I also thoroughly enjoyed the climbing. Thus, when I repeat the route, I still do that pitch. Jul 19, 2006

[Hide Comment] Brian,

I'm just trying to direct people to what routes I personally find enjoyable and worthwhile, which is of course a matter of opinion. The above post is in jest and sarcasm, and I'm a little bummed you couldn't see that. I was hoping people would get a good laugh if nothing else, and I did not intend that laugh to be at your expense. Most people I talk to, actually everyone but you and Rob Kelman, have not enjoyed the first pitch. I actually figured you were being a sandbagging ahole- "go do that one, it's real good". I think Rob recommends it for the resons I stated. I gather that from some words regarding route quality in the introduction of "Heel and Toe". I formally apologize if my words struck a cord with you. I assume we can agree to disagree about the quality of the first pitch. I'm glad you enjoy the first pitch.

Just to fill everyone in on the quote:

"Good judgment comes from experience, and experience often comes from...bad judgment." -RM Brown Jul 19, 2006

[Hide Comment] Jammer,
Quality and grade, being highly subjective, probably take up over half of the discussion on this site. Funny, most of the people that I've talked to about the pitch (including Rob) enjoy it. I apologize if it sounded like I came off as a "sandbagging ahole," definitely not my intention. The pitch offers a good experience, as the gear is bomber and climbing unique. I concur that we are agreeing to disagree. I did like your sarcasm though.
Jul 20, 2006

[Hide Comment] 10.14.06, A. Wiedmann led the route. Thought P2 was grand--steep, strenuous, with spicy off-fingers near the top. Found that some left-shoulder friction was helpful in getting some additional power on the insecure stuff. Oct 16, 2006

[Hide Comment] Don't miss out on the first pitch. It is a lot of fun, even if you are tall. There are good jams the whole length of the roof, unlike P2 of Captain Nemo.

The second pitch is hand size dependent. Add a couple letter grades, if you are wearing fat sweaty tape gloves. Classic pitch.... Jul 9, 2007

[Hide Comment] Terrific climb, makes me love the Voo all the more. P1 was enjoyable and not to be missed, and I'm 6'. Get the rests where you can before the crux finish on P2 and then gun for the top. Oct 4, 2007

[Hide Comment] THIS IS ONE GREAT CLIMB! The gear is great on it and the jams are good. It is splitter and flaring, it is classic Vedauwoo climbing. It is all about gunning for the rests and feeling the exposure! Jun 13, 2009

[Hide Comment] Bring a couple of extendable draws maybe 3 total. Only gear needed is doubles from red Alien to #2 Camalot and a couple of big wires for the belay station on the 2nd. My rack is miss matched, so sorry if this doesn't help you with sizes. Plus one yellow Alien. Sep 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] I agree, p1 was is really cool and not as bad for tall people as it was made out to be (I'm 5'11"). Jun 3, 2014

[Hide Comment] 5'11" isn't tall :) Jun 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman. Jun 23, 2014

[Hide Comment] Horrendously hand-size dependent. As such, perhaps the 5.10b crux of my life (with #3 sized hands).

I did not enjoy this climb as much as I should have. Jun 16, 2015

[Hide Comment] Great climb. P1 is certainly just an "approach pitch" to the great climbing above, IMO. P1 was seeping pretty heavily, which made those jams feel quite nast-town.

P2 is splitter. I wish it went on for 100'. Jul 24, 2023