Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Platinum Curl

5.11, Sport,  Avg: 1.9 from 105 votes
FA: Rick Leitner, 2000
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sport Park > Surprising Crag > S Face
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

This is located on the "Surprising Crag - South Face". Locate the route 'The Touch' and find the route to its immediate left. An obvious, small roof and layback flake are apparent from the ground. Climb to the ledge (unprotected) and clip the first 2 bolts before moving over the roof, layback the flake and get some high feet to crank the roof. From here, climb past 3 more bolts to the anchors (5.9). It is a nice route, although the difficulty doesn't last long (3 seconds...). The grade is also a little high perhaps more like 11b/c ??

Protection

6 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Aleix working in the crux.
[Hide Photo] Aleix working in the crux.
Jon works out the crux of the climb
[Hide Photo] Jon works out the crux of the climb
Platinum Curl.  The crux is turning the roof past the third bolt.
[Hide Photo] Platinum Curl. The crux is turning the roof past the third bolt.
James takes a rest after the difficult layback sequence
[Hide Photo] James takes a rest after the difficult layback sequence

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] Jeff, we jumped on this 11/12/01 and I thought it was 5.11d for the squeeze needed to get the right foot in place. Nov 13, 2001
[Hide Comment] The flake is a pretty sweet move. Probably not a 5.12a though. Sep 4, 2002
JVonD
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] I climbed it, and I can't climb 5.12. The ratings in the whole area seemed off a little. Probably 5.11-. May 5, 2003
[Hide Comment] Fun climb! Who cares if you think it's overrated! Jul 17, 2003
[Hide Comment] I climbed this a couple years ago, and I only rarely climb 11a. Apr 8, 2005
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] You people make me laugh, come on 11-/11a? Aug 22, 2008
[Hide Comment] Easy climbing with one tough move, 11b. Dec 1, 2009
Pat Kelly
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Totally reach dependent, this felt like 10+ for me...I do NOT onsight 11s this easily. Jan 3, 2012
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] One move wonder over the small overhang easier climbing before and after. Aug 21, 2017
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Beta? The left foot jib is so tiny. This might be a shoe-dependent route. Has anyone tried it with a high, far left foot dropknee? Nov 11, 2017