Type: Sport
FA: Tom Hanson, 1995
Page Views: 1,261 total · 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Hands down, this is the best route at the Playground. The climbing begins on a steep, West-facing wall around the corner from Chinook.

Start in a bulging overhang with a very awkward move to an undercling above your head. The goal shortly will be a pocket above and left. At best, this will gain a chance to get over your feet, but the move is hard and is indeed 5.12 - off the deck. However, the game is not over. Sequential 5.11 climbing with some long reaches to crimpy, thin cobbles and shallow pockets await. Pick up some added spice in the run out to the anchor.

Like many routes here and elsewhere, it feels much harder than 5.12a until you start to dial in the beta. This is in the top ten at CWC. The plum picker here is Tom Hanson.

Protection

Quickdraws and a rope.

Photos