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Routes in Crystal Freeway

Bad Saturday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Ramp T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grunt Lieback T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kitchen's Delight 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Road T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Chimp T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Northeast Cutoff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orange Christmas T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Strawberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strong Love T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Very Bad Saturday T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: n/a
Page Views: 14,071 total · 66/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

NOTE: NUMBER 3 on the topo. Tape up or your hands will look like a bowl of mashed berries. Other than that, its simple - jam up the beautiful handcrack. Think about 'swapping sides' at the squeezy crux. The upper half turns into an offwidth trough (think about long pants, gobi knees). If you don't feel comfortable running out the last 30' to the anchors, set a belay (on gear) at the obvious shelf in an alcove. Bring up your second, then do the second short pitch to the top. This climb is the 5.8 Vedauwoo 'hands' testpiece.

Protection

Take a full rack, lite on the wires and assorted stuff, and heavy on the medium and large cams (rec. 3x#1, 3x#2, 2x#3, 2x#3 1/2 Camalots). A 60m rope is recommended. It's 2 rap stations to the ground from the top as indicated on the topo.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
This really is a great line.We saw it when bush-whacking from the central area to the Valley Massif. Without looking up the grade or knowing what the line was we just stared and said "We are coming back to do that!" We did, and I am super-jazzed.

It takes cams from 1.5" to 3.5" for the first 40' of hand crack in perfect but toothy rock, until a slot crux. That crux can protect on a #4 Camalot, or a smaller piece placed further back. Once past the crux, the route will take hexes or cams from 2.5" to 5", depending on how far in you want to place them. You need not run this out much, even if you don't have a fist-full of #4s. I had two, but only used one. #3.5 Camalots are actually more frequently a good placement. Jul 7, 2002
Great hands to a sweaty groaning offwidth, this great route is one you'll most definitely remember. it'd be nice to carry two 3.5 Camalots near the top of the offwidth. Sep 15, 2003
Jeff Sallen
San Diego
  5.8+
Jeff Sallen   San Diego
  5.8+
This was a stellar route in my opinion. However i must give credit where credit is due. Brian Weinstien, my partner my wing man for life, grunted, groaned, cussed, and screamed up that off width. without enough big pro, bri sucked it up and ran out the remaining 25 feet,,,, i was most impressed....brian its on Oct 29, 2003
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
This and grunt layback alone are worth the walk. May 3, 2005
This is a really great route for getting a taste of Vedauwoo and practicing some hand crack and off-width techniques. I used a lot of fist jams near the top, and a little grunting. Make sure to wear long pants and a shirt with sleeves-no sportsbras on this one. Jun 27, 2005
shad O'Neel
  5.8
shad O'Neel  
  5.8
The offwidth part of this climb seemed easier than the upper slot, just longer. There are some good jams and smallish gear (like #3's) in the back of the crack, but if you are scared and have a 4.5 or 5 you can walk it the entire length of the OW making this a good lead for those like me trying to get comfy in wide world.The last 30 feet are very interesting. Aug 10, 2005
The bottom of this route has sweet jams, once you hit the offwidth though I think everyone leaves a little skin. Ouch... Jun 25, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Done as one big pitch-this climb is awesome! Jul 24, 2006
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
With H. McIntyre 8.21.06. This is a beautiful line that looks hard and strenuous and doesn't disappoint. Found it easiest to go left side in on the lower part (good hands to fists), then switch to right side in at the crux. Pro is bomber in the crack and OW, nonexistent on the lichenous face at the finish. Don't bother with any pro smaller than a .75 Camalot; the OW protects nicely with large, sideways hexes.

Guidebook lists the climb at 5.8- which is a sandbag for us ordinary mortals. I would rate the handcrack at 5.8, crux at 5.8+ or 5.9 (arm length dependent), and the OW at 5.7-5.8.

If you're in the habit of bringing your kids along, I'd recommend leaving them at home as this route inspires some, uh, interesting phraseology, i.e., 'Holy sh!t this is hard' and 'Mother of God!' and assorted F-bombs. Props are due my partner for seconding the pitch with considerably milder language and in rather better style! Aug 21, 2006
Brian Story
  5.8
Brian Story  
  5.8
Good climb, not the splitter handcrack I was expecting. I'd recommend doing this as 1 long pitch. Be sure to bring at least one #4 camalot sized cam. After the steep hand to fist crack start, I found the upper OW to be moderate and not the gruntfest others appear to have found. Nov 14, 2006
kili
29 palms, ca
  5.7
kili   29 palms, ca
  5.7
A great climb, but it seemed easy for a 5.8 at Vedauwoo. Sep 28, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.8
I found the apparent difficulty of this climb to be dependent on three things: hand size, how you approach the hand crack section, and the ambient air temperature.

If you have bigger hands (#3 Camalots are perfect hands for you), the lower section will have some distinctive cruxes.

If you go with the wrong shoulder leading, getting to that offwidth crux will feel difficult.

If the rock is very cold, it can be very difficult to get good pro as the flare requires some finger work to get a cam in place.

Not saying it will feel like 5.9, just that where in 5.8 it lands depends on those three. Sep 29, 2009
kili
29 palms, ca
  5.7
kili   29 palms, ca
  5.7
That's true, but it doesn't compare to Humper, 5.8. Sep 30, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9
As a visitor, without allowing for the weird local grading system, I'd give this 5.9. After 30' of pleasant hand-jamming the real fun starts. An inflatable pad for the right knee would be a good idea. Or maybe an old-fashioned big mountain boot on the right foot would make things easier. Oct 16, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.8
The final 30' have two options:
Go up and left towards the final anchors via an easy but completely unprotected slab.
OR
Go right into the squeeze chimney. It has some good hand jams right where it gets wide enough to start wriggling up (so all the way in the back). The downside is that the final few moves to the anchors are also unprotected but licheny and loose too.

The slab is probably easiest, but 30 feet off of a cam and 10 feet off of a cam, if you're still reeling from the offwidth, will feel wildly different. Aug 26, 2012
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.8+
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.8+
This felt a bit more difficult than 5.8, but what did I expect. It's the Voo!

I only used one #1 at the beginning, two #2s as the crack widened, 2 #3s at the crux, and a #4 above the crux. One could avoid the #4, but you would have to burry smaller cams pretty deep and risk them waling back into oblivion.

Rack smaller gear to your right and bigger gear to your left. There is a bit of a corner that is on your left as your start and switches to your right as you go up, making gear rather inaccessible if on the wrong side.

I linked it all together at one pitch, rapped twice to get down with a directional across from the second rap station, and top roped my partner on the first pitch.

Definitely a great route with an excellent view! Sep 9, 2012
Left a silver Helium Friend here on 4/25. Would be greatly appreciated if it made its way back! Apr 28, 2014

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