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Routes in Crystal Freeway

Bad Saturday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Ramp T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grunt Lieback T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kitchen's Delight 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Road T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Chimp T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Northeast Cutoff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orange Christmas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Strawberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strong Love T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Very Bad Saturday T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
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Type: Trad
FA: n_a
Page Views: 2,057 total, 10/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

NOTE: this is number 4 on the topo. This is a great moderate hand crack (actually the 2nd pitch of Kitchen's Delight) that literally eats medium cams - and your hands if you don't tape up! Step across the void to the right (facing the rock) from the belay station and jam up the crack.

Protection

Take Camalots from #0.75 to #3.5, 2 each of #0.75, #1 and #2, a full range of wires and some extra 24" slings. The belay is on gear at the back of a large depression over the top. Arrange a 'remote' belay with an extra long length of your rope from your placements. This way you can not only see your second, but avoid big time rope drag. A 60 M rope is recommended. Its two rap stations to the bottom as indicated on the topo.

Photos

Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.7
The bolts on top of pitch 1 have been replaced! I'm not sure when. Jun 19, 2016
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.7
As of this writing, the bolts on the top of pitch 1 are 1/4 inch. While they are in good condition still, be wary.... Oct 7, 2013
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I found the roof traverse to be the distinct crux, the grade was accurate, but protection is awkward to place; 5.7+ PG. Jul 6, 2011
Avery N
Boulder, CO
Avery N   Boulder, CO
I think the description above takes the easier variation on the second pitch (Low Road, 5.2 per Heel and Toe).

First pitch -- can't say first-hand (we started with Croissant), but it does begin on an obvious crack from behind the huge boulder.

For the second pitch (Kitchen's Delight, not the variation listed above). Step just right of the belay. Head up the offwidth 15' to a roof. Traverse right under the roof (crux, mostly small cams) until you hit the beautiful (but easy) vertical hand/fist crack. Take this to the top. 2 raps, the lower of which is close to 30m.

Harper and Kelman list this as 7+, which I (surprisingly) found pretty accurate. Jun 9, 2009
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Somewhat similar to NE cutoff, except pitch two is a hand crack. Worthwhile route. I felt the grade of Kitchens to be equivalent to that of NE cutoff. Jul 24, 2006