This is a great route well worth the walk after topping out on any of the Walt's Wall or Fall Wall routes. After locating the crag gawking at Lucille, look to the right for this classic line.
Ascend the stemmy corner to the first large ledge. One could separate the climb into 2 pitches after this first 30' of the lead. Step a few feet right and surmount the initial difficulties of entering the crack - seemingly the Vedauwoo theme. If you fall out, you have a king-sized ledge to plop back onto. Once established, cruise the fun, continuous handcrack to the anchor.
Protection
A standard rack including a good selection of hand-size cams suffices. Rappel anchors are on the shelf above the crack.
[Hide Photo] Me getting started in the bouldery crux section. The crack above was pretty continuous. The only way to rest was with your feet crammed in the crack. Photo by Chad Stebbins.
[Hide Comment] It's pretty rough getting into the crack for the second pitch. The feet are really awkward. However, one good pull should get you to much easier ground.
Feb 4, 2002
[Hide Comment] I placed a #3.5 Camalot in the bottom stem slot, other than that nothing bigger than hand pieces is needed. The start of the second half is well described as a 5.9 boulder problem, takes some thought.
Mar 22, 2004
Boulder, CO
Durango, CO