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South Face Direct

5.10c, Sport,  Avg: 2.5 from 35 votes
FA: Russ Johnson, John DeLong, 1982.
Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Elevenmile Dome
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This is a great, balancy route up the fine granite. Watch that first clip - the moves aren't too easy getting to it....

A second pitch continues above the first set of bolts, but it is not often done, it seems.


About 5-6 draws and a few extra for the anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Shaw
[Hide Comment] Watch the climbing to the first bolt. At about .9, a fall would send you skittering down the low angle slab. Harder moves at the second bolt lead to easier climbing above. May 21, 2004
Darren Mabe
Parks, AZ
[Hide Comment] Getting to the first bolt, there used to be a nice right hand hold. I pulled it off in 1997. It made the moves a little stiffer. May 24, 2004
Matt Ford
Colorado Springs
[Hide Comment] Darren, I hope you're not saying you pulled it off on purpose. Bad ethics if so.

Otherwise, fun route. 2nd pitch noticeably easier (5.8ish) but there's a nicer view from the top and a great belay ledge to hang out on. Sep 10, 2006
Darren Mabe
Parks, AZ
[Hide Comment] Matt, it was not intentional. I believe I made that comment as a warning of the slightly more difficult opening moves before you are protected by the first bolt, and in response to Larry's comment about the fall potential getting to the first clip. I fell when the hold popped, and my partner was spotting me. I wasn't hurt though. That's all I remember. Sep 11, 2006
Denver, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Fun climb with tricky balance moves for the first two bolts. The remainder is straightforward but kind of runout. Aug 3, 2008