PRINT: Rock Climb East Face/Three Graces, Colorado Springs

East Face/Three Graces

5.10+ X, TR,

Avg: 1 from 5 votes
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Bob Robertson, 1982
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > Three Graces

Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023 Details

Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.

Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.

In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.

Kindergarten/Gray Rock

2018-24 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure info from GOG staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure photo from GOG staff.

North Gateway

From Bret Tennis, GOG, Park Operations Administrator: North Gateway Rock expanded raptor nesting closure. Requested to post. This applies for 2024 as it did for 2018-2023.

Old info:

Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.

Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

2020-22 Gateway Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2018-24 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.

Closures as of June 5, 2019:

The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.

2019 Raptor Climbing Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

2019 Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Raptor Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

Continued climbing closures from 2018:

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.

Description

First, climb the great 5.2 ridge route on the North ridge(s) of Three Graces, a superb climb which will undoubtedly be described by others. Set up the toprope from this anchor, and head basically straight up the face, moving slightly right and then left to follow natural weaknesses. Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet, as this section of rock is very fragile. Pull down and not out or, better yet, resist the temptation to climb this route after rapping off from Three Graces.

Note: I have heard, but not confirmed, that the entire Three Graces formation is closed to climbing due to the damage done by climbing on the rock (I'll take my small share of credit for said damage, after being unable to resist the temptation on this route). You might want to check with the Park staff, since not climbing there is probably preferable to a fine.

Protection

No pro. Somewhat loose and unpredictable rock. A toprope problem - 'nuff said.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO

5.9+ X

Top roped East Face of Three Graces after rappelling the Window Route.

However, I followed the features (crack) on the far north end of the East Face rather than going straight up, which makes it a much easier and more enjoyable climb. In several places the crack/ridge features peter out, and I had to move left and do some "face" moves, but that just made the climb all the more interesting -- in fact I finished the route by moving back to the middle of the East Face for about the last 15 feet.

The rock is still very sandy and brittle, so a climber would still need to toprope it to be safe. I would definitely not lead climb this, even if I were that good of a climber. Oct 9, 2008