Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,737 total · 12/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Aug 15, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a another wonderful easy Flatiron climb. It has a "classic" rating in Roach's Flatiron classics guidebook. There are a couple large runouts (~25-35 feet) on this climb, so I gave it a "s" rating even though other guide books don't.

P1. Start at the southern corner of the rock and head up the east face. A 5.8 varition goes up a thin crack around the corner. Belay below a bulge on the arete or near a small tree (~120 feet, 5.2).

P2. Climb through a bulge, and head up a clean runout slab. Belay near the south edge (~130 feet).

P3. This is the best pitch on the climb. Head up the arete, place some pro in the small crack, and then hand traverse the ridge line to the summit. Enjoy the exposure off the back side into Bear Canyon. The best protection on this pitch is a good smear and a firm grasp.

Descent: sling the summit block with the rope and rap off the back side (west side). We did a double rope rap to the east into the gully north of Fi. This is a better option in my option.

Protection

Light rack to 2 inches.

Photos